Content
In recent years, grape cultivation has become increasingly popular among Russian gardeners. However, growing vines and getting a harvest from them is not as easy as it seems at first glance. They can be destroyed not only by errors in agricultural technology, but also by pathogenic microflora and pest attacks. One of the most common problems is aphids on grapes. It is quite possible to cope with it if you know the characteristic signs of infection.
Why are aphids dangerous?
The main danger of aphids for grapes is their abundance and gluttony. Pests attack the vines en masse, practically clinging to the plant. They especially “like” the tops of shoots, young leaves, buds and fruit ovaries.
Pests suck the juice out of the plant, depriving it of essential nutrients. They “inject” an enzyme into the tissue that “inhibits” photosynthesis and other natural processes.It gradually accumulates, having a depressing effect on the grapes. The vine's immunity deteriorates, and the risk of infection with fungal diseases increases. If nothing is done, the grapes wither and the yield is greatly reduced. As a result, the plant dies.
Description and photo of aphids
The “appearance” of aphids depends on the species. Several varieties of aphids attack grapes.
Root (phylloxera)
These insects go “outside” extremely rarely; they feed on the juice sucked from the roots of the grapes. The color is yellowish-beige or dark brown, with symmetrical black-brown dots on the back.
Winged (galled)
It attacks the above-ground part of the plant, feeding on the juice of shoots, leaves, flowers, and fruits. The outer chitinous shells are bright, orange-red, the main color is greenish-yellow or beige. In females, the rudiments of wings are visible on the sides of the body. Aphid larvae, hatching from eggs laid by females, gradually “descend” down to the roots of the grapes.
Sexual
All individuals are wingless, the color is light green or almost transparent. Their lifespan is only eight days, during which time the female manages to lay a single egg that can successfully overwinter under the bark.
Any aphid is a very small insect (maximum 1-1.5 mm in length).Her body is ovoid, with three pairs of limbs and a “proboscis”. The period of activity practically coincides with the growing season for most plants - from mid-May to early November.
Causes
Most often, aphids attack grapes because the gardener neglects preventive measures aimed at preventing the pest from attacking. Also increasing the chances of its attack on the vines is non-compliance with the planting scheme, choosing a location for the vineyard without taking into account the most important criteria for the plant (quality and composition of the substrate, lighting). Another risk factor is neglect of grape care and gross mistakes in agricultural technology.
Aphids are extremely “omnivorous” insects. It affects the vast majority of garden crops. Therefore, it can be argued that, having appeared on the site, sooner or later she will “get” to the grapes.
Signs of infection
It is quite difficult not to notice aphids on grapes. There are a lot of numbers against her.
"Secondary" symptoms:
- sticky sweetish coating on the surface of the leaves;
- numerous areas of tissue discolored almost to the point of transparency;
- the surface of the leaf plates, covered with spherical “growths”;
- twisted, deformed leaves, buds, fruit ovaries, shoots.
In severe cases, if the gardener does not pay attention to aphids on grapes, leaves, flowers and buds dry out and fall off en masse, and the formation and ripening of fruits stops. Young shoots also dry out and die. The bush is affected by a variety of fungal diseases.
How it spreads
Aphids can spread either passively or actively. In the first case, it can get on the grapes in the following ways:
- Planting seedlings already infected with the pest.
- Transport by wind.
- "Help" from a gardener. Aphids can end up in the soil, on agricultural implements and tools, work gloves and clothing.
- "Invasion" by ants. They specifically transfer its eggs to the most “juicy” and “tasty” plants.
- Transfer by water flows (during irrigation, during rain). Water can “knock” aphids to the ground, where they die, but sometimes in this way the insects “move” to neighboring plants.
Adult winged individuals independently “migrate” between plants. Aphids that live underground move much more slowly, but they are also capable of “crawling” from one root system to another.
How to get rid of aphids on grapes
The range of products for controlling aphids on grapes is very wide. For prevention and in the early stages of disease development, folk remedies or preparations of biological origin are used. When insects have already multiplied in numbers, only insecticide chemicals will help.
In addition, we must not forget about safety for human health, pets, and the environment. Many anti-aphid drugs negatively affect the quality of grapes - chemicals accumulate in the berries. Therefore, they can only be used during certain periods of vine development. One of the main taboos is to spray grapes with insecticides during flowering.
Chemicals
The chemicals “poison” the grape vines, making them inedible to aphids. Feeding on the sap of such plants, pests die almost instantly. The effect of the treatment lasts up to 20 days.
Fastak
Synthetic universal insecticide with contact-gastric action. It is valued by gardeners for its economy, resistance to precipitation, and safety for insects pollinating grapes.
Fozalon
Contact-intestinal insecticide. It begins to act instantly and retains the effect for at least 20 days. Its effectiveness is not affected by rain and low temperatures.
Kinmiks
A nerve agent that destroys different types and forms (adults, larvae) of aphids on grapes. To completely cope with the pest, 1-2 treatments are enough.
Aktellik
One of the most effective, but at the same time very toxic to humans, animals, birds, and other insects, is an insecticide of contact-intestinal and systemic action. When working with it, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment for the eyes and respiratory system. You also need to wear gloves and closed clothing, shoes to prevent the solution from coming into contact with the skin.
Biological agents
Biological preparations can be used to treat grapes against aphids even during flowering and ripening of the berries. But they give the desired effect 5-10 days after treatment; it lasts for a maximum of two weeks.
Fitoverm
Effective against aphids, thrips and spider mites. The result is provided by a natural neurotoxin. It enters the body of aphids through the skin or intestines, and therefore affects only adult individuals.
Iskra-Bio
Suitable for controlling aphids not only on grapes, but also on any other plants in the garden. The “peak” effect is observed 3-5 days after spraying; grapes can be eaten after 2-3 days.
Biotlin
The active substance against aphids is bitoxybacillin. The drug is quickly absorbed by tissues, pests die after three days. The effect of the treatment lasts for 20 days (if it is dry outside and the temperature does not rise above 30 °C).
Another biological method of pest control on grapes involves the “help” of entomophages. Predatory insects - natural enemies of aphids - destroy adults, larvae, and egg laying.
Insectivorous birds - warblers, wrens, tits, and robins - are useful in the fight against aphids on grapes. They are attracted to the site by installing “houses,” drinking bowls, and feeders. But there is always a risk that the birds will “switch” to the crops grown by the gardener.
Treatment of grapes against aphids with folk remedies
To combat aphids on grapes, experienced gardeners suggest using:
- Laundry or green potassium soap. Approximately 50 g of shavings are whipped into foam and diluted in 10 liters of water. Soap can be added in small quantities to other solutions so that they “stick” to the grapes better.
- Tomato or potato tops. Fresh “raw materials” (500-600 g) are crushed and boiled in 10 liters of water over low heat for about an hour. The finished liquid is filtered and diluted 1:1 with water. Similarly, you can use the greens of any plants with a pungent odor (wormwood, tansy, marigold, celandine).
- Wood ash. To combat aphids on grapes, it can be used in “dry form”, sprinkling the soil and dusting the plants. You can add ground pepper and tobacco crumbs to the ash. An infusion is also prepared by pouring boiling water (3 l) over the ash (0.5 l) and infusing for 3-4 hours.
- Onion or garlic “arrows” (heads will also do). Approximately 150 g of greens are finely chopped, poured with a liter of water, and left for 5-7 days. Then filter, pour the liquid into a bucket (10 l) of water.
- Table (9%) vinegar. Working solution – 200 ml of vinegar per 10 liters of water. You can use ammonia - 10 ml per 10 liters.
Folk remedies are absolutely safe for human health and the environment; they are suitable for treating grapes against aphids in the summer. However, their effect is short-lived (maximum 7-10 days, usually until the first rain).
Mechanical methods
The simplest mechanical method of combating aphids on grapes is to “knock them down” to the ground with jets of water. You need to pour water on the vines from a hose, ensuring a sufficiently strong pressure.Once on the ground, aphids can no longer “climb up” back; they quickly become prey to natural enemies - insects and birds.
An “auxiliary” method of combating aphids on grapes is pruning. It is necessary to immediately remove all parts of the vine (leaves, shoots, flowers) on which pests are noticed. Since aphids attack vines en masse, literally clinging to them, it is impossible to collect them manually.
Prevention
It is easier to prevent aphids from attacking grapes than to later deal with the consequences of infection. Simple preventive measures will help minimize the risk of insect attacks on vines:
- Planting grapes in a suitable substrate - sandy. If the soil is not light and loose enough, the immunity of the vines suffers, and in this state they are more susceptible to attacks by pests, including aphids.
- Regular (at least once every 5-7 days) thorough inspection of the vines. It allows you to detect aphids on grapes immediately after their appearance, and not when the insect has already multiplied en masse.
- Immediate pruning of parts of the vine affected by aphids. The resulting plant waste cannot be stored; it is burned as quickly as possible.
- Annual digging or deep loosening of the soil under the grapes at the end of the growing season. The beds are first cleared of plant debris (fallen leaves, rotten berries, broken branches). Thus, the gardener destroys places suitable for overwintering eggs and larvae of the pest.Also, as part of treating grapes against aphids in spring and late autumn, the soil is spilled with hot water and sprinkled with wood ash.
- Planting herbs or ornamental plants with a pungent odor next to the grapes (mint, lemon balm, lavender, sage, wormwood, marigolds). Aphids do not like such “aromas”; they quite effectively repel insects from the vines.
- Fighting ants. They live in a stable symbiosis with aphids. If there are anthills near the grapes, the vines will almost certainly have a pest.
- Pre-planting treatment of grape seedling roots. They are soaked for 15-20 minutes in a solution of any insecticide suitable for controlling aphids.
Conclusion
Aphids on grapes pose a danger to vines, primarily due to their reproductive activity and gluttony. Pest control should begin immediately after suspicious symptoms are detected. For this purpose, there are “heavy” chemicals, “gentle” biological products, and folk remedies. We must not forget about simple preventive measures that help prevent aphid attacks.