Content
An indispensable component of decorative landscaping are climbing roses, which enliven any composition with beautiful bright flowers. They require competent care, in which an important place is occupied by pruning and covering climbing roses in the fall.
Climbing roses are those that have long shoots, and according to the nature and length of which they are divided into different groups.
Types of climbing roses
The climbing ones are the longest, they have flexible green shoots that spread up to 15 meters. They are the real roses. Small double flowers are collected in inflorescences covering the entire length of the shoot. This species is called Rambler. Most of its varieties are winter hardy. A light, dry shelter is enough for them. Climbing roses bloom profusely in June and July.
By crossing with other varieties, climbing roses were bred from climbing roses, which were called Climber. They bloom profusely in the form of inflorescences collected from large flowers. Some varieties also produce repeated flowering. Plants are winter hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.
The third type came from spray roses as a result of mutations. They are called Climbing. The varieties are distinguished by larger flowers - up to 11 cm in diameter and are mainly adapted to mild climatic conditions.
Trim value
Different types of climbing roses require different pruning methods depending on the characteristics of the species. Proper pruning performs the following tasks:
- freeing itself from old shoots, the plant rejuvenates;
- removing excess shoots helps thin the bush and ensures uniform lighting and air access;
- when pruning, a decorative formation of the bush occurs;
- the rose blooms more luxuriantly, the root system strengthens and develops more intensively;
- there is a higher concentration of nutrients;
- the plant's resistance to diseases increases;
- bushes that are too large are difficult to cover for the winter;
- pruning provides high-quality material for propagating bushes.
If there are no roses trim, they will begin to get sick and bloom less, and over time they may die. Beginner gardeners who do not yet know how to prune a rose correctly can use a simplified pruning form:
- reduce the height of the bush by half;
- remove all old or dead shoots by cutting them off at the very base.
In order to identify the old shoot, you need to carefully examine the bush. Old branches are much thicker than others, and their bark is excessively dry. They are also distinguished by a large number of side shoots, which are less well provided with nutrition due to significant lignification of the main stem. Pruning old branches helps the bush renew itself.
Necessary equipment for pruning
To properly perform pruning, you need to prepare a high-quality tool:
- the pruning shears, garden knife or saw must be well sharpened, otherwise they will not be able to provide smooth cuts;
- a blunt instrument will leave frayed cuts, which will become a source of infection for the bush;
- Before pruning, the tool must be disinfected;
- you should work in thick work gloves that protect against thorns;
- It is better to use a garden rake to collect old branches.
Sections must be treated with a disinfectant. You can use for this:
- garden var;
- potassium permanganate or copper sulfate;
- crushed activated carbon or wood ash.
When to prune
Autumn pruning of climbing roses can begin only when the air temperature at night remains stable at around minus three degrees - for the middle zone this time coincides with the end of October. If you prune earlier, warm weather will promote bud development, which will lead to the death of shoots in winter. You cannot prune even in August, since the emerging shoots will not have time to become woody before frost and will die. The frozen branch will then thaw and become a favorable environment for fungal growth.
In order to prevent the emergence and subsequent freezing of shoots, preventive measures must be taken starting in the summer:
- at the end of July, stop feeding climbing roses with nitrogen compounds;
- increase the application of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers - the former will help strengthen the root system of the plant and more rapid maturation of existing shoots, and phosphorus will provide nutrition for future buds;
- after the last feeding, you need to stop removing flowers - this measure will help prevent the growth of new buds.
General pruning rules
Pruning climbing roses for the winter should be done in dry, sunny weather, adhering to the following recommendations:
- First of all, diseased and damaged shoots are removed; woody branches must be removed with a hacksaw;
- there should be 4-5 shoots of the current year left on the bush, evenly spaced;
- white branches are also pruned - they will still freeze and become a source of disease;
- It is also necessary to remove shoots directed inside the rose bush - as they grow, they will thicken it;
- all old shoots after pruning must be burned immediately;
- pruning should be done above the bud, at a distance of 4-5 mm from it;
- the bud should be on the outside of the shoot;
- the cut should be inclined and at an angle of 45 degrees - then moisture will not remain on it;
- Leaves and dried flowers should also be removed;
- shoots with small leaves often appear from the base of the roots - this wild growth should be pruned immediately, otherwise the entire bush will go wild.
You can get acquainted with the rules of pruning by watching the video.
Differences in pruning depending on variety
The type of pruning depends on the length of the lashes, the number of branches and the height of the bush.
- Large-flowered varieties of climbing roses, in which most of the buds are located in the upper part of the shoots, require long pruning. A third of all branches are deleted. The remaining shoots should have no more than 10 buds. After wintering, bright inflorescences will appear along their entire length.
- Before sheltering roses from winter cold, medium pruning is most effective. It is quite gentle and suitable for almost all types of climbing roses. The exception is curly ones. With medium pruning, up to 7 buds are left on the shoots.
- Short pruning of roses in the fall is rarely carried out, since after this there is a danger of the roses freezing.It can be carried out in areas with mild winters and mainly for small-flowered varieties. With short pruning, only up to three buds are left on the shoots.
Ground cover roses In the fall, you don’t need to prune, and in climbing trees, only damaged or very old branches are removed.
If pruning of a climbing rose is done incorrectly, it will die in winter. Its bush should be trimmed only by a third, removing old, last year's branches and broken shoots. This will provide an opportunity for renewal and the appearance of new inflorescences.
Simultaneously with pruning climbing roses, you need to tie them, which will direct the vines in a horizontal or inclined position.
Sheltering roses for the winter
Cover climbing roses for the winter it is necessary only after the onset of constant frost. They calmly tolerate the effects of light frosts and even become more resistant to cold, but will not withstand sudden temperature changes. If you cover roses before frost, the buds will begin to sprout and the plant will die. To cover the bushes you need to choose dry weather:
- the lashes, cleared of leaves and old shoots, are twisted and bent to the ground, placing spruce branches underneath;
- then you should strengthen the lashes in the ground with the help of reliable hooks;
- insulate the top with spruce branches, wooden boxes or cardboard boxes;
- cover the entire structure with one of the types of modern covering materials.
If the pruning of climbing roses, their shelter and all measures to prepare the bushes for winter are carried out correctly, next summer they will reward you with lush, bright flowering.
