Content
Clematis stinging or clematis is a perennial plant of the Ranunculaceae family, which is a powerful and strong vine with lush greenery and many small white flowers. Quite easy to care for and at the same time highly decorative, clematis stinging is loved by many landscape designers and gardeners around the world.
Description of clematis pungent
In the natural environment, on the coast of the Black and Mediterranean Seas, clematis stinging can reach 3-5 m in height with a diameter of 3-4 m. Clematis prefers forest plantings or bushes. In park compositions and private gardens its dimensions are more modest - up to 1.5 m in height.
Clematis flammula, also called clematis, is a woody climbing vine. The plant has a fast growth rate, flowers are formed only on the shoots of the current year.Small-flowered white clematis in the photo is very similar to other wild species, such as mountain clematis (Clematis montana) or yellow clematis (Clematis vitalba).
The shoots of clematis pungent quickly grow green mass. Many small lanceolate or broadly oval leaves 1.5-4 cm long. The color of the leaf blade varies from emerald to dark green, the surface is smooth, with an almost imperceptible waxy coating.
With the beginning of flowering, which lasts from June to August, the clematis stinging bush is transformed: the vine resembles a light white cloud of hundreds of small star flowers. The diameter of clematis flowers does not exceed 2-3 cm, the sepals are obtuse with pubescence along the very edge, length is 4-10 mm. Flowers are collected in voluminous airy panicles. One clematis shoot has from 200 to 400 buds. The flowering of clematis pungent is accompanied by a pleasant, unobtrusive aroma with notes of honey and almonds. At this time, the plant attracts many honey insects.
After flowering, on Clematis stinging you can see red-brown pubescent or bare achenes with a fancy tufted nose - up to 7 cm long. Clematis does not lose this interesting decorative appearance until the end of September.
This type of clematis is called stinging due to a special caustic substance produced by its powerful cord-shaped rhizome. If it comes into contact with the skin or mucous membranes of the mouth and nasal cavity, it causes irritation, which may be accompanied by swelling. The juice of clematis pungent is not poisonous; if precautions are taken when replanting the plant, it does not pose a danger to human health.
Clematis pungent in landscape design
Snow-white burning clematis is an excellent option for creating natural landscapes in a wild style. It is used for decoration:
- walls;
- gazebos;
- screen;
- pergola;
- fence;
- balconies;
- bare tree trunks.
If you place a support near the clematis, the plant will quickly entwine it, forming lush white-green thickets. Small-flowered clematis is often planted as a full-fledged bush or a creeping flower carpet. Clematis stinging is used as a ground cover plant when decorating garden paths, flower beds, and coniferous compositions. Interesting combinations of clematis with crops such as:
- spirea;
- juniper;
- low-growing varieties of thuja;
- lilac;
- mock orange;
- rose hip;
- forsythia.
Oriental clematis and other similar species, contrasting in color, are often placed next to the burning one. The dense, small foliage of clematis in combination with countless small flowers creates a romantic atmosphere in the garden and makes the area cozy and well-groomed. The following are also suitable for joint vertical gardening:
- girl's grapes;
- hop;
- ivy;
- actinidia;
- decorative beans;
- sweet pea;
- nasturtium;
- kobeya.
Landscape designers often combine clematis with perennial and annual herbaceous plants. Good neighbors for clematis will be:
- peonies;
- phlox;
- marigold;
- daylilies;
- irises;
- calendula.
Optimal growing conditions
Clematis pungent can be grown not only in the fertile warm climate of the Caucasus and the Mediterranean, it grows well and overwinters in the temperate zone. Clematis loves good lighting and timely watering without stagnation of moisture.Growing in the southern regions can be difficult due to overheating of the soil, which clematis tolerates very painfully. The way out of the situation is to place the vines in partial shade and plant dense annuals nearby.
Planting and caring for clematis stinging
By following the simple rules of agricultural technology, you can easily grow white small-flowered clematis in your summer cottage. An optimally selected location, proper planting and subsequent care will ensure abundant flowering and decorative appearance of clematis pruriens for many years to come.
Selection and preparation of a landing site
Clematis stinging can grow in one place for up to 25 years. It can be placed next to outbuildings, near a gazebo or veranda, or as an arch or fence. It is important that the place is calm and well lit, but not located in the direct sun. Clematis can be planted in partial shade - this is ideal for hot climates. Gusts of wind are destructive for clematis, as they easily break young shoots. Decorativeness suffers from this, and the plant looks dejected.
Like other types of clematis, burning clematis loves loose, light soil rich in nutrients. The pH reaction should be neutral or slightly alkaline. In acidic soil, lime should be added before planting clematis.
Clematis stinging does not tolerate close groundwater; it is not recommended to plant it in lowlands and wetlands. Excess moisture will inevitably lead to rotting of the root system. Some gardeners get out of the situation by digging special drainage ditches in the immediate vicinity of clematis plantings.During prolonged rains, wood ash is scattered under the bush.
The hole for the clematis is dug in advance. Garden soil is mixed with the following ingredients (per 1 m²):
- wood ash – 300 g;
- superphosphate – 150 g;
- peat – 10 l;
- humus - 20 l.
The dimensions of the recess depend on the dimensions of the clematis root system, but not less than 60 cm in width and length, depth - 70 cm. Immediately before planting, the soil can be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Seedling preparation
Properly selected planting material is the key to healthy and abundant flowering of clematis. When inspecting seedlings in a nursery, you need to pay attention to the following nuances:
- the plant should not have mechanical damage;
- pests and signs of any diseases must be absent;
- the root system must have at least 5 roots;
- An autumn clematis seedling must have 2 shoots, and a spring one must have at least one.
The best time to buy young clematis is considered to be mid-September. 2-year-old seedlings with a closed root system have the highest survival rate. Before planting, the shoots of clematis pungent are cut off, leaving 1-5 buds.
Rules for planting clematis pungent
Clematis stinging is planted in open ground in spring or early autumn. In areas with a cool temperate climate, spring planting is more appropriate; in the south, on the contrary, autumn planting is more appropriate. Planting clematis pungent is not difficult, however, you need to follow several rules:
- A support is installed at the bottom of a hole dug in advance and covered with a layer of drainage made of pebbles, broken bricks, crushed stone, expanded clay or coarse river sand.
- A layer of fertile soil is placed on the drainage in the form of a mound, on which the seedling is placed, spreading the roots.
- Young clematis is covered with earth so that the root collar is 10 cm below ground level, and something like a funnel or crater is formed around it.
- The clematis seedling is watered generously with warm, settled water and mulched with a generous layer of peat.
- In the first weeks after planting, clematis is shaded from direct sunlight.
Watering and fertilizing
Clematis pungent small-flowered loves moisture; the vine needs to be watered once a week, and on hot, dry days - 2-3 times. To do this, it is better to use a watering can without a diffuser; pour water at the root, trying not to get on the leaves and stems. Inaccurate irrigation of the above-ground parts of Clematis pungenta can lead to its wilting. Young clematis bushes consume much more moisture than adult perennial vines.
In order for clematis stinging to please the gardener with lush and succulent foliage, as well as abundant and long-lasting flowering, it must be fed in a timely manner. During the active growing season, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied alternately to the soil around the clematis, maintaining an interval of 20-25 days.
Nitrogen and its compounds, so necessary for active growth, are contained in organic matter (manure, chicken droppings). They are mixed with water and infused - this promotes better absorption of nutrients by the roots of the plant. In the absence of droppings or manure, clematis stinging can be fed with urea (urea).
To ensure high-quality bud formation and lush, long flowering, clematis pungent is fertilized with a complex mineral product, for example, nitrophoska.
When clematis stinging begins to bloom, they try not to feed it, especially with products containing a large amount of nitrogen. This will provoke the vine to increase green mass to the detriment of flowering. When the burning clematis fades, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the root zone. It is better to feed the vine immediately after the next watering.
Mulching and loosening
To increase the air permeability of the soil, the circle around the trunk is periodically loosened, while removing weeds. The procedure should be carried out after watering or rain. To reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface, stinging clematis is mulched with sawdust, humus, peat or fallen leaves. The mulch layer is replaced with a new one several times during the season.
Garter
Young fast-growing shoots of clematis pungent are characterized by increased fragility and require timely tying to support. To do this, use raffia, twine or plastic clips. The lower part of the clematis bush is fixed to a mesh or wooden structure using wire. The vines are tied in one layer so that light and air easily penetrate to any part of the plant. Otherwise, clematis stinging will suffer from various diseases caused by lack of light and high humidity.
Trimming
In the spring, for more spectacular and long-lasting flowering, several side shoots are cut off from clematis. Dried or damaged branches are removed throughout the warm season.To do this, use a well-sharpened garden pruner, disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol. In the fall, all clematis shoots are radically pruned, leaving only a few nodes above the ground.
Preparing for winter
After autumn pruning, the tree trunk circle is covered with mulch or dry soil, a wooden box is placed on top, and covered with a thick layer of sawdust, peat or leaf litter. A thick plastic film with holes made in it for ventilation is fixed on the shelter. In this form, the rhizome of clematis pungent will calmly endure even the harshest and snowless winter.
Reproduction
Clematis stinging can be propagated both vegetatively and generatively. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- Seeds. Small-flowered white stinging clematis is a natural species, so seedlings grown from seeds will exactly repeat all the characteristics of the mother plant. Future seed material is collected from clematis at the end of October. The seeds are cleaned of fluff and tufts, placed in containers with damp coarse sand and placed in the refrigerator for 2-3 months for stratification. In April-May, clematis seeds are sown in a sand-peat mixture on the soil surface, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top. Caring for seedlings comes down to regular watering. When 2-3 true leaves are formed on young clematis, they can be picked into separate containers. The bushes will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place in the garden only next spring.
- Layerings. In the spring, a shallow groove is dug near the clematis bush, into which a strong, healthy vine is placed and secured with special metal brackets.After new shoots appear on the layering, it is lightly sprinkled with earth. A year later, the allocated shoot is carefully removed from the ground and cut into individual seedlings, which are immediately assigned to a permanent place.
- Cuttings. Both green and lignified shoots of clematis are suitable for cuttings. They are cut 8-10 cm long so that the upper cut above the node is straight, and the lower one is at an angle of 45°. The leaves below the node are torn off, the tips of the cuttings are treated with a growth stimulator (preparations “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin”) and planted in a greenhouse, in a loose nutrient substrate. After 1.5-2 months, the root system of young vines will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place or to growing beds.
- Dividing the bush. Adult burning clematis is dug in from all sides or removed from the ground completely. The bush is divided into several parts so that each has a good rhizome and several shoots with vegetative buds. Clematis cuttings are immediately planted in a permanent place.
Diseases and pests
Clematis stinging most often suffers from fungal infections. Clematis pests are:
- aphid;
- mole cricket;
- slugs;
- snails;
- root-knot nematode;
- caterpillars;
- spider mite;
- rodents.
The table below describes the most common diseases and pests of clematis pungent, as well as control and prevention measures.
| Disease or pest | Description | Control and prevention measures |
| Rust | Rust on clematis stinging appears in the form of red spots on young shoots, petioles and leaves. If left untreated, shoots become deformed, leaves turn brown and curl, which subsequently dry out and fall off. | For prevention purposes, you should weed in a timely manner. weeds and trim off the affected vine fragments. When clematis stinging is infected with rust, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride (CHOM), preparations “Topaz”, “Gamair” |
| Gray rot | In cloudy and rainy summers, the leaves and petals of clematis pungent may become covered with brownish spots with gray fluff. These are the first signs of gray mold infection. Over time, the young shoots and leaves die off, and the clematis stops growing. Spores of the fungus Botrytis cinerea are easily carried by the wind and quickly infect other garden crops. | The soil around the clematis should not be allowed to become waterlogged. For control, clematis pungent bushes are treated with the preparations “Azotsen”, “Gamair”, “Fundazol” |
| Powdery mildew | At the height of summer, clematis stinging can be affected by powdery mildew. Leaf blades, green shoots, flowers and buds are covered with a gray-white coating reminiscent of flour. Affected fragments quickly change color to brown and die | Preventive measures against powdery mildew - timely watering without waterlogging, treating clematis plantings with cow's milk diluted in water. For treatment, use “Fitosporin-M”, “Topaz”, “Baktofit”, “Alirin-B”, soda ash diluted in water (40 g per 10 l) |
| Verticillium wilt | The first sign of wilt on clematis stinging is wilting of the tops of the shoots, especially young ones. This is the result of the activity of pathogenic fungi that live in the soil and, under favorable conditions, penetrate the stems of the plant. The vessels in the core of the stem are damaged and clogged with fungal mycelium, and nutrients are supplied in insufficient quantities. The disease spreads very quickly - several lashes can dry out in a day | Do not plant clematis stinging in a shaded place with heavy and acidic soil. It is important to tie up clematis in a timely manner, remove weeds and not overfeed with nitrogen. The peak activity of the fungus occurs at a temperature of 23-26°C and high humidity levels. Clematis stinging bushes are treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Trichodermin, Glyokladin, and a copper-soap solution. In some cases, it is not possible to save the clematis; it is dug up and burned |
| Aphid | At the beginning of summer, aphids become active on the tops of young shoots of clematis pungent. Numerous small insects literally stick around the clematis, sucking out the plant sap and secreting a sticky liquid. Gradually the shoots dry out and die | Aphids are removed from clematis stinging mechanically (by washing off with a stream of water), beneficial insects and birds are attracted to the garden, and traditional methods are used (spraying infusions of tomato tops, garlic, onion peels). The most effective use of modern bioinsecticides, such as Fitoverm-M |
| Snails and slugs | With the arrival of the warm season, clematis stinging is attacked by slugs and snails. They eat the soft tissues of the clematis, in particular the kidneys | Pests are collected manually; wood ash, lime, superphosphate, and granular metaldehyde are used to repel and control them. |
| Spider mite | You can notice that clematis stinging is affected by spider mites by the presence of sticky thick cobwebs on the leaves and shoots. Ticks pierce the clematis leaf plate from the underside and feed on the sap of the plant. Small yellow spots appear in these places; over time, the affected fragments lose color and dry out | Ticks become active during hot and dry weather, usually in mid-summer.It is difficult to get rid of the pest; you will have to treat the ground part of the stinging clematis three times with strong insecticides, such as Actellik, Akarin, Antiklesch |
| Root nematode | Nematode roundworms infect the clematis root system, causing the formation of thickenings that disrupt the normal nutrition of clematis. Liana looks depressed, pale, and growth is slowing down. Young seedlings of clematis pungent may die | Pests are repelled by planting marigolds and calendula. As well as mulching the clematis tree trunk with mint or wormwood. It is necessary to add compounds containing ammonia (ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate) |
Conclusion
Clematis stinging is an unpretentious fast-growing vine that will decorate any garden. Snow-white foam of small flowers with a subtle honey aroma can transform the most inconspicuous places of the site, draping them with its thick foliage. Even a novice gardener can grow clematis pruriens.
