Content
Kobeya climbing is a climbing semi-shrub vine, widely used in vertical gardening due to its ability to quickly grow and “conquer” almost any surface and height. Numerous shoots of this plant are densely covered with lacy feathery leaves that look very decorative. From July to October, large bright flowers in the shape of intricate bells appear on the climbing kobei, emitting a pleasant aroma. In its homeland, in the tropics of Mexico and Peru, it is a perennial plant. In the Russian climate, it is usually grown as an annual and most often propagated by seeds.However, if the climbing kobe is given the opportunity to overwinter in the basement in a container, then spring cuttings are also practiced. It is also possible to root cuttings of a bush buried in the ground. Climbing kobeya, growing in open ground, needs proper care: providing strong support, regular watering and spraying, and fertilizing. By observing these conditions, you can get luxurious green growth in a short time, which can quickly turn even the most unsightly fence into a charming hedge.
Description of the climbing kobei
Climbing, tenacious, creeping Kobea (in Latin Cobaea scandens) is the only one of 9 species of semi-shrub vines united in the genus Kobea of the Sinyukhov family, which is grown in cultural gardening. In 1787, the Spaniard Barnabas Cobo, a Jesuit monk, impressed by the beauty of this plant, brought it from Mexico to his homeland, Europe, to decorate his own garden with a charming tropical plant.
In the wild, this vine grows in a humid, hot climate - it is extremely heat-loving. In tropical and subtropical conditions, climbing kobeya exists as a perennial plant. However, in more severe climates, which involve at least slight frosts in winter, it is usually grown as an annual plant.
Climbing kobeya has a powerful, branched root system consisting of thin fibrous roots.Its numerous shoots spread over a distance of 4-6 meters, clinging to all kinds of supports with tendrils located at the ends of the leaves. The latter are very durable and resemble compressed springs.
The leaves of the climbing kobe are complex, pinnate, with a slightly wrinkled surface. They are located alternately.
Long (up to 20 cm) peduncles of climbing kobei are located in the axils of the leaves. By July, from 1 to 3 ribbed buds of greenish color are formed on each of them. When large (up to 8 cm in diameter) flowers, shaped like bells, bloom, they gradually change tone to one that corresponds to the variety: usually dark or light purple or greenish-white. The climbing kobe has long stamens and a pistil, noticeably protruding from the corolla of the petals. Newly appeared buds usually smell musky, and opened flowers exude a honey aroma.
Flowering usually lasts until October.
The fruit of the climbing kobei is a leathery capsule. Inside there are large, flat, round-shaped seeds. In temperate climates they usually do not ripen.
Application in landscape design
Climbing kobeya copes excellently with the task of vertical gardening in garden plots. Landscape designers highly value its ability to grow quickly and densely, as well as to entwine any planes and structures. In particular, climbing kobeya is great for achieving the following goals:
- creating “green walls” and hedges by planting vines near the southern walls of houses, gazebos, gazebos, pergolas, near fences and fences;
- braiding arched structures, shapes and figures from durable mesh or wire;
- revitalizing the garden with bright flower beds in combination with lobelia, verbena, petunia and other flowering annuals;
- in combinations with other climbing plants: honeysuckle honeysuckle, hops, climbing roses, clematis;
- concealing architectural defects of various buildings located on the site;
- colorful and long-blooming “green curtains” in greenhouses and winter gardens;
- decoration of a loggia, veranda or terrace when grown in a portable container or flowerpot.
A successful example of a composition using climbing kobei in the garden is shown in the photo:
Climbing kobea is quite capable of using the branches and trunks of its closest neighbors as a support, often drowning out and shading them. It is important to maintain a suitable distance between plants and remove overly growing vine shoots.
Features of reproduction
Methods of propagation of climbing kobei:
- Growing from seeds. In temperate climate zones, only the seedling method is practiced. At the beginning of the growing season, climbing kobei is extremely sensitive to low temperatures and fluctuations in air and soil humidity. Sowing seeds directly into open ground under such conditions is impossible.
- Rooting green cuttings. They are cut from plants that have overwintered in containers indoors and, with the onset of spring, are planted outdoors in the garden. For cuttings, use young strong shoots of climbing kobei, 15-25 cm long, with 2-4 pairs of leaves. For rooting, use wet sand; the place should be shaded.It is noteworthy that climbing kobeya, propagated by cuttings, grows faster than plants obtained from seeds, but its flowering is not so long and abundant.
- Adding layerings. To do this, select a healthy, powerful shoot from an adult plant, located close to the ground. A long trench is dug in the ground, a layer of climbing kobe is placed there and covered with soil. The tip of the shoot is lightly pinched and left on the surface. In order for the climbing kobei layer to hold tightly, it is secured with a “pin” made of wire. The soil at the planting site should be kept moist. After some time, the cuttings of the climbing kobe will sprout with young shoots.
Growing seedlings
This vine is mainly propagated by seeds. First, they are germinated indoors, creating the most favorable conditions for the development of young plants. A few months later, with the onset of consistently warm weather, the strengthened seedlings are moved to a permanent place in open ground.
When to plant climbing kobeya for seedlings
The time for planting climbing kobe seeds for seedlings, as a rule, occurs at the end of February or at the beginning of March. They should be planned taking into account the 2-3 days required for pre-sowing preparation and the couple of weeks required for germination.
Preparing containers and soil
The following planting containers are suitable for young seedlings of climbing kobei:
- Wide boxes or containers about 15 cm deep with numerous drainage holes at the bottom.
- Individual pots, cups or peat tablets.
- The so-called "sleeves". They are easy to make by wrapping the glass in 2-3 layers of foil, but without covering the bottom.Several rows of such cylinders should be installed in a wide tray with holes to drain excess water, and then filled with soil.
The soil mixture should be loose, light and nutritious. For climbing kobe seedlings, the following composition is quite suitable:
- leaf soil (4 parts);
- garden soil (2 parts);
- humus (2 parts);
- coarse sand (1 part).
Pre-sowing seed preparation
Since climbing kobe seeds usually germinate poorly, they require mandatory pre-sowing preparation and pre-germination. It is also important to plant on time, otherwise you may not wait for flowering.
First of all, the climbing seed material should be soaked for some time in a solution of a growth stimulator. Its composition could be like this:
- 4 drops of Epin Extra or 5 drops of Zircon per 100 ml of water (soak the seeds for 4 hours);
- 1 part aloe juice and 1 part honey (immerse the seed for 1 hour).
After processing, the climbing kobe seeds need to be dried in air, and then carefully spread on gauze, a cloth napkin, or a piece of toilet paper, folded in several layers so that they do not touch. The material needs to be moistened, covered with cling film and placed in a warm (about + 22-25 ° C) shaded place. The condition of climbing kobe seeds should be monitored every day. If plaque or mold is noticeable on them, the film should be lifted and their surface gently wiped with a cloth soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After approximately 2 weeks, some of the seed will germinate.
How to sow climbing kobe seeds
The algorithm for planting climbing kobe seeds is simple:
- The prepared containers are filled with a suitable substrate.
- Gently lay the sprouted seeds on the surface with the convex side up. If containers are selected for group planting, then the distance between individual specimens of climbing kobei is left large - about 20 cm.
- Cover the seeds with a layer of sifted substrate 1.5 cm thick on top.
- Moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
- Transfer the container to a warm, bright place.
Seedling care
The subtleties of caring for climbing kobe seedlings at the initial stage come down to the following points:
- maintaining a constant air temperature not lower than + 17-20 ° C;
- sufficient amount of diffused lighting, protection from direct sunlight;
- regular moderate soil moisture.
After the first true leaf appears, climbing kobe seedlings should be planted together with a lump of earth into separate pots with a capacity of about 3 liters.
Their care will need to be supplemented with the following measures:
- organizing support for each sprout: a peg about 0.5 m high;
- maintaining high air humidity through spraying;
- pinching the tops of climbing kobe seedlings a month after picking;
- hardening of seedlings - gradually accustoming them to the open air in good weather (3-4 weeks before the intended planting in a permanent place).
Planting and caring for climbing kobei in open ground
At the end of spring or early summer, it is time to “relocate” the climbing kobe seedlings to the garden. Caring for this flower in open ground has its own specifics.
Recommended timing
The main criterion for determining the time for planting climbing kobei in a permanent place in the garden is the onset of consistently warm weather without the threat of return frosts. Depending on the climate, optimal conditions for this procedure usually occur from late May to mid-June.
Site selection and soil preparation
The place where the climbing kobe is to grow must be well-lit and protected from strong winds, with loose, crumbly, moisture-absorbing and fertile soil.
It is recommended to dig up the soil in the garden bed, adding for each square. m area:
- 1 bucket of peat;
- 0.5 buckets of sand;
- 1 bucket of humus of plant origin.
In addition, to ensure the active growth of climbing kobe, it is advisable to enrich the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers (urea, urea). You will need to add 30-40 g of granules per square meter. m plot.
Landing algorithm
Planting the climbing kobei in a permanent place in the garden is done as follows:
- Holes are dug in the ground at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other. Their depth should be such that the roots of the seedlings do not bend during the transplanting process.
- Seedlings of climbing kobei are watered abundantly.
- The bushes are removed from the pots one by one along with a lump of earth on the roots. If the containers are plastic, they are usually simply cut along the walls and removed, carefully releasing the plants.
- Each seedling is placed vertically in a hole and soil from the garden bed is poured under the roots.
- Water the plantings using a watering can with a fine sieve.
Installation of support
Immediately after planting the climbing kobei, you will need to provide it with reliable support. Otherwise, the shoots of the plant will look for random support, using as this the surface of the soil, as well as shrubs and flowers growing in the immediate vicinity.
An overgrown climbing kobe is quite heavy, so the support must support its weight. This can be a rope, a strong net made of various materials, a wire frame, a trellis, etc. At first, the stems of young seedlings of climbing kobei need to be tied to a support. Then they will begin to curl around it on their own.
Watering and fertilizing schedule
Climbing kobea needs moderate watering throughout the season. On hot, dry days, the frequency of procedures and the amount of moisture added are increased, but it is important to ensure that the soil does not become waterlogged. It is advisable to pour water between the climbing kobe bushes, and not aiming at the very roots.
It is recommended to apply fertilizing twice a month, starting from the second week after transplanting the vine into the ground. At first, it is better to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers - they will contribute to the active growth of green mass of the climbing kobei. At the stage of the appearance of buds and flowers, it is advisable to give preference to compositions with a predominant content of phosphorus and potassium.
Care during the flowering period
The tactics for caring for a flowering kobeya involve continuing all those measures that were taken after planting the plant in the ground. At this stage it is desirable:
- devote time to regularly inspecting the overgrown lashes of the climbing kobei for diseases and pests;
- set the desired direction of shoot growth, tying them up if necessary;
- From time to time, remove yellowed leaves and faded “bells” of the climbing kobei to preserve the decorative appearance of the plant.
Preparing for winter
Since climbing kobeya is a tropical plant, in a temperate climate zone it is not able to withstand winter in open ground.
If a gardener wants to preserve the vine for next year, he must:
- before the onset of frost, cut off the entire above-ground part of the climbing kobe at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground surface;
- carefully dig up the rhizome of the plant with a lump of earth;
- transplant it into a container filled with fertile soil;
- transfer to a cool, dark room (basement), where it is stored throughout the winter at a temperature of about + 5-8 ° C;
- Regularly inspect the rhizome of the climbing kobe and slightly moisten the soil, preventing it from drying out too much.
In the spring (March), shortly before returning to the garden, the container with the vine should be brought into a warm room, increase watering and wait for the shoots to grow.
Diseases and pests
Climbing kobeya often suffers from the following diseases and pests:
- Root rot. It usually develops as a result of stagnation of moisture in the soil caused by excessive watering or poor drainage in the area where climbing kobe grows. External signs of the disease are numerous black spots on leaves and flowers.Damaged organs of the kobei must be cut off, carefully loosen the soil at the roots and allow it to dry thoroughly, and then shed with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. Preventative measures will help to avoid the disease: regulating the volume of irrigation water and preventing waterlogging of the soil.
- Spider mite. Favorable conditions for the rapid reproduction of this pest are created by prolonged intense heat. The presence of microscopic cobwebs on the stems and back of the leaves of the kobea plant will help identify it. The green mass begins to turn yellow, dry out and crumble. To combat spider mites, spray the climbing kobei with compositions prepared according to folk recipes (infusion of pine needles or mustard powder) or with chemicals (Aktellik, Fitoverm, Decis).
- Aphid. As a rule, this parasite attacks already weakened plants. Garden ants help aphid colonies move long distances, so you should fight them too. The pest feeds on the juices of plant leaves, as a result of which the leaves quickly turn yellow and curl. If the infection is insignificant, you can try treating the green mass of the kobe with a solution of green or laundry soap, tincture of garlic or onion peels.
Is it possible to collect climbing kobe seeds?
The seeds of the climbing kobei do not have time to ripen in a temperate climate. Seed material for the new season will have to be purchased again from the store. It is advisable to choose trusted suppliers.
Conclusion
Climbing kobeya is a charming tropical plant that can decorate a garden in a temperate climate. Beautiful long lashes of shoots with emerald green curly leaves and bright wine-white or purple flowers always attract attention. The ability of the climbing kobe to grow rapidly and, clinging to its antennae, to climb almost any surface makes it an ideal “assistant” to a landscape designer who wants to decorate a gazebo or arch, zone a site using “green walls” or disguise the shortcomings of buildings. Usually this beauty is grown as an annual plant, however, if you are not too lazy to prune the plant before the onset of cold weather, dig up the rhizome and store it in the basement, you can return it to the garden next spring. Most often, the seedling method is used to propagate climbing kobei, but seed material should be purchased in stores from year to year, since outside the tropics and subtropics the seeds do not have time to ripen in the natural environment.