How to propagate walnuts

The walnut grows and develops slowly, so the first fruits can be tasted 5-6 years after planting. You can speed up the process, but to do this you need to learn how to propagate a tree. There are 2 most effective methods of walnut grafting, which allow you to enjoy delicious kernels after 3 years.

Is it possible to graft a walnut?

In addition to the fact that the nut develops slowly, it has one more feature - during seed propagation, the varietal characteristics of the tree are not preserved. Therefore, it is possible and necessary to graft walnuts. This method allows you to grow a seedling identical to the parent, which will begin to bear fruit much earlier.

Grafting walnut seedlings is practically no different from propagating fruit crops using this method, but it has some nuances:

  1. For the rootstock, select varietal young nut seedlings that are not yet 3 years old.
  2. The diameter of the rootstock trunk should not exceed 1.5 cm.
  3. Young shoots of this year, cut from well-bearing trees, are suitable for the scion.
  4. The thickness of the scion branch in diameter should not be more than 0.8 cm.

The rootstock variety must combine well with the scion and have the same frost resistance and other characteristics. You can learn how to properly graft a walnut from the video below.

Experienced gardeners advise choosing nut varieties for the rootstock that give a good harvest and quickly take root in a new place:

  • Dawn of the East;
  • Harvest;
  • Five-year plan.

Rocknut and Hinji seedlings can be used for grafting. However, not every soil is suitable for these varieties, and they do not tolerate low temperatures in winter. However, they are highly resistant to various diseases.

How to propagate walnuts at home

Walnuts can be propagated by other methods besides grafting. They all have their advantages and disadvantages and are not particularly complex. Even a novice gardener can cope with propagation at home.

Propagation of walnuts by nuts

Reproduction by walnut fruits is used to develop new varieties, which are subsequently taken as a rootstock for grafting. The method is suitable for the Northern regions of the country in order to obtain a seedling that is maximally adapted to harsh growing conditions.

Fruit propagation begins in the fall to minimize labor costs. Cracked nuts that are not suitable for storage are selected and planted in fertile soil. Work is planned for November. This is where all the action ends. Over the winter, the seedlings will take root well and begin to grow actively in the spring.

If there is a need for spring planting, the nuts are first stratified, after which they are germinated for 2 months in damp sand in a cool place. Plant the fruits in loose soil. You should not expect good germination, since walnuts are slow to germinate in the spring.

Attention! During seed propagation, varietal characteristics are not preserved.

How to propagate walnut branches

Vegetative propagation is different in that it always produces a seedling of the desired variety, which retains all the characteristics of the mother tree. To do this, use the coppice branches of the current season, which are located at the bottom of the trunk. For rooting you need:

  1. Prepare a groove 15-20 cm deep near the tree trunk.
  2. Bend a walnut branch, tie it with wire or break it, pin it to the ground.
  3. Cover the shoots with fertile soil and water generously.

Seedlings are separated from the mother tree next spring. Immediately planted in a permanent place, since the nut does not tolerate transplantation.

Propagation of walnuts by cuttings

Propagating walnuts by cuttings is not much different from cutting fruit trees at home. To begin, prepare the shoots:

  1. Annual, healthy branches 35-40 cm long are cut out.
  2. Cuttings are cut, the length of which is 15 cm, and the thickness is no more than 7-15 mm.

The shoots are placed in damp sand and stored in a dark place at a temperature of 0... +5°C. In winter, the cuttings are inspected; if the humidity is not enough, then sand is additionally sprayed from a spray bottle.

Attention! Rooting of cuttings begins in early spring. Walnut shoots can also be used for grafting.

Features of walnut grafting

Grafting on walnuts takes root less well than on other fruit trees.You will have to work hard with the seedlings.

Walnut grafting is usually done in the summer. This is the best time to work. The timing may vary in different regions, but it is best to start in the first ten days of July. As a rootstock, 2-year-old seedlings grown independently from cuttings or fruits are used. The scion is a fresh bud, which is cut from the desired variety.

Spring and autumn grafting of walnuts is also possible, but this is rarely done. The survival rate of seedlings is low.

More often, gardeners prefer winter grafting of walnuts, which is carried out at the end of winter. However, the rootstock and cuttings for the scion are harvested from the end of autumn. This method is more suitable for experienced gardeners who are already familiar with the grafting method.

How to plant a walnut at home

Walnut grafting is not an easy task; the survival rate of planting material is not always high. However, it is worth the risk in order to end up with a varietal seedling that will begin to bear fruit early and will be adapted to the local climate.

Summer budding

Grafting with an eye or bud is called budding. Carry it out according to the instructions:

  1. Circular cuts are made on the green cuttings with a special knife with two parallel blades. The kidney should be between the cuts.
  2. A horizontal cut is made on the back side of the cutting so as to carefully remove a piece of bark with a bud.
  3. Dirt and dust are removed from the rootstock, the same incision is made at a distance of 7 cm from the ground and a piece of bark is removed.
  4. A half ring with a bud is placed on the rootstock and wrapped well with film so that the eye remains visible.

The walnut grafting is left for 15-20 days. If during this time it remains green and does not dry out, then we can judge success.After this, the bandage can be loosened; the film is completely removed after 2-3 months. During this time, the rootstock will grow well with the scion.

Winter grafting (copulation)

At the end of winter, harvested walnut seedlings and cuttings for grafting are brought into the warmth. The room temperature should be +15°C. After which they are left to warm up for several days. The following are the instructions:

  1. Prepare the Epin solution and place the scion cuttings in it for 20-30 minutes.
  2. Cut off the lower ends of the scion and rootstock at an angle. The bud on the scion should be located on the reverse side of the cut.
  3. Stepping back 1.5 cm from the cut, cut the bark on the rootstock and scion to form a tongue.
  4. Connect the graft so that the tongues fit into one another.
  5. Secure the grafting site tightly with film or twine.

Leave the grafted seedling indoors for 2-3 weeks, but raise the temperature to +20°C. After this, transfer the walnut to the basement and store until spring. In April, plant the seedling in open ground.

How to plant a walnut in spring

In the spring, nut grafting is rarely done, since sap flow begins early and the moment can be missed. However, seedlings for budding can be prepared in late autumn and stored in the basement. It is best to choose annual, mature shoots that will give good growth.

A few days before budding, the rootstock seedlings are soaked in water, to which sugar or honey is added. This procedure stimulates the nut to grow. Next, prepare the scion as described above and act according to the instructions.

Warning! You can cut green cuttings for grafting in early spring, at the stage of swollen buds.

Care after vaccination

After grafting, walnut seedlings need careful care.After the bandage is removed, the vaccination site is checked. It should be dry. If several cuttings were used as a scion, then it’s time to choose the strongest and most developed of them. It is left for further growth, the rest are shortened. They are cut out after the tree has taken root well. Experienced gardeners recommend leaving the strongest shoot that grows from the lower bud, which is closer to the graft.

Over the next 3-4 years, the tree crown is formed. All thickening shoots are cut out, which speeds up the formation of fruit buds. In addition, during this period the tree needs more moisture. The soil is maintained in the required condition and freed from weed. Moisten the area around the tree trunk to a depth of 50-60 cm. Watered mainly in summer. In autumn, the soil is not moistened, otherwise the growth of grafted seedlings is hampered and their winter hardiness is reduced.

Fertilizers have a greater effect on the growth of walnuts. After grafting, seedlings need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium supplements. Add them according to the instructions:

  1. At the beginning of summer, dry nitrogen mixtures are distributed around the tree trunk. For 1 sq. m consume 20-25 g of fertilizer.
  2. In the fall, 130 g of superphosphate and 35 g of potassium chloride are added to the digging. This is the norm for 1 sq. m for a tree up to 10 years old.

As the tree ages, the amount of fertilizing is increased by 20 g. During the dry period, all fertilizers are applied in liquid form, while in rainy weather it is better to switch to granules.

How quickly a walnut will develop after grafting depends on the condition of its leaves. Therefore, the gardener should pay special attention to the fight against diseases and pests. The tree's leaves must be healthy.For young seedlings during this period, chemicals are contraindicated. It is better to use traditional methods of prevention and prepare an infusion for diseases yourself:

  1. In a 3 liter container, pour onion peels, chopped garlic, 2 tbsp. tobacco The mixture should occupy 1/3 of the volume of the bottle.
  2. Fill the container with boiling water and leave for 7-10 days in a dark place.
  3. Strain the prepared solution. Before spraying trees, dilute 10 liters of water.

This infusion is used in early spring, in the closed bud phase and along the “green cone”.

The following method will help you cope with pests after walnut grafting:

  1. Pour 500 g of yarrow herb and the same amount of wormwood into a 5 liter bottle.
  2. Fill the container with boiling water and leave to steep for 2 days.
  3. Drain the infusion, boil for 30 minutes, cool and dilute with 10 liters of water.

The mixture helps get rid of codling moths, aphids, mites, caterpillars and other pests. Spraying is repeated every 10 days.

Advice from experienced gardeners

You shouldn’t rush to uproot a walnut if you don’t like the variety or the tree dies. Gardeners say that it can be saved by grafting. It is enough to master the skills of budding.

Walnut grafting is a good solution for residents of the Northern and Central regions of the country. You can graft your favorite southern shoot onto any frost-resistant tree variety, which will take root well and bear fruit.

For grafting to be successful, the seedling must be planted in the right place. After which, take good care of it for 2 years, and only then use it as a rootstock.

Advice! You need to choose a rootstock and scion for grafting of the same age. So, tissue fusion will be successful. In older trees the processes slow down.

Conclusion

The two most effective methods of walnut grafting allow you to quickly obtain a seedling with the desired characteristics. It is enough to strictly follow the instructions, then the result will not disappoint.

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