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Growing berry crops using new technologies is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. A good option for small plots or local areas is standard currants, which will not only reward the owners with an excellent harvest, but will also delight them with a spectacular, decorative appearance. However, in order to grow it, it is necessary to follow a number of mandatory agrotechnical practices when planting, caring for and forming the bush.
Features of currants on a trunk
To successfully grow standard currant bushes, a number of characteristic features should be taken into account:
- even a cutting with one bud at the top is suitable for cultivating standard currants;
- several plants are planted at a minimum distance from each other;
- currant varieties specially designed for this method of cultivation give a rich harvest, more plentiful compared to currants grown in the traditional way;
- picking berries is very convenient and simple;
- bushes in the form of trunks are capable of bearing fruit for 15 - 17 years;
- the area of the tree trunk circle can be used for planting beautiful flowering plants, for example, marigolds, which will protect the berry crop from pest invasion;
- the berries retain their attractiveness and freshness for a long time, as they do not lie on the ground;
- standard currants are rarely affected by pests due to its specific shape;
- good crop formation is ensured by uniform illumination of the crown;
- caring for the tree trunk becomes simple and convenient.
Despite the large number of advantages, the standard form of cultivation also has disadvantages. As a rule, this is insufficient winter hardiness and possible damage to the bushes by strong winds. However, such problems can be easily dealt with if you provide the standard currant with shelter for the winter in cold climatic regions and protect it from the winds by choosing the right planting site.
The best currant varieties for standard form
Most often, red and black currants are grown in standard form, which are considered less demanding compared to white or golden ones. Fruit ripening on a trunk occurs faster, and the berries contain more sugar than bush currants. Therefore, they are tastier, more aromatic, and have a more pronounced taste. In central Russia, mainly black and red berry crops are grown in this way, the varieties of which are quite unpretentious.However, in Europe, standard yellow currant of the Imperial variety is widely valued, which is not only productive, but also very decorative. Often it is used by gardeners precisely as an ornamental plant, which is the highlight of the garden. The variety is characterized by late flowering, which eliminates the risk of flowers freezing during spring frosts. Therefore, it can be successfully grown in central Russia.
Black standard currant
The most popular varieties of standard black currant are:
- University;
- Stork;
- Monastic;
- Commemorative.
It is not recommended to grow black currants on a trunk in regions with cold winters, as they are not frost-resistant and are more sensitive to freezing of shoots than red currants. Peak fruiting of the berry crop occurs in the 4th - 5th year.
Red currants on a trunk
Red currants are more unpretentious than black currants. It is frost-resistant and easily tolerates even the harshest winters. The most productive varieties with tasty and healthy fruits are:
- Natalie;
- Viksne;
- Accordion;
- Rondome.
Red standard currant bears fruit most fruitfully in the 7th to 12th year of life.
How to grow standard currants
To grow standard currants, as in the photo, you must follow certain planting and care rules. Young seedlings can be planted in spring or autumn, depending on the climate zone. In regions with large snow cover, autumn planting is also suitable; in areas with little snow, currants are planted in the spring, before the buds open. In harsh winters with little snow, shrubs must be covered.
An important step when growing currants on a trunk with your own hands is gartering, because the thin branches of the bush can break under the weight of the crop. To do this, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the installed support in its upper part, to which several pieces of twine are tied. Their number should be equal to the number of branches. The shoots of the bush are tied with twine and pulled up a little. The result is an umbrella-like structure that keeps the bush intact and gives it a neat, compact shape.
Selection and preparation of a landing site
Currants prefer sandy loam soils with a slightly acidic reaction, which have good moisture holding capacity. The area for currants should be well lit, light openwork partial shade at midday is allowed. In the shade, the ovaries and flowers become smaller, which negatively affects the fruits, which become small and lack sugar. The place for the bush should not be blown by cold winds or drafts, as a young trunk can easily break. Standard currant bushes feel great on the south-eastern side of the wall of a house or building, fence or hedge. When planting in autumn and spring, they begin to prepare the site in advance, adding peat or rotted manure along with digging. Prepare the site 14 days before the planned planting of seedlings.
Rules for planting standard currants
The algorithm for planting currants on a trunk differs from the activities when planting a shrub form and consists of the following actions:
- prepare planting holes of standard sizes 50x50 with a distance from each other of 30 - 50 cm;
- a drainage layer of broken brick, gravel or coarse sand is poured onto the bottom;
- immediately drive in a strong support for gartering the currants;
- pour a layer of fertile soil consisting of humus, leaf compost and sand, with the addition of 2 cups of wood ash;
- the seedling is placed strictly vertically and fixed to a support;
- when planting, make sure that the roots are straightened;
- add soil mixture, compact it and water it abundantly.
Watering and fertilizing
Standard currants are quite moisture-loving, so when growing them you should make sure that the soil around the trunk does not dry out. The bushes should be watered generously 2 - 3 times a week, increasing the rate during drought. The depth of moisture penetration must be at least 1 m deep. However, waterlogging should also not be allowed, otherwise the roots may rot. Proper development of currants is impossible without fertilization:
- in early spring, fertilize the bush with urea in the amount of 15 g per square meter;
- in summer, mineral fertilizers are applied: 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride, diluted in a bucket of water;
- mulching with a mixture of rotted manure and peat before the winter period also provides additional nutrition for the roots and their preparation for the winter period. The berry crop responds well to the addition of wood ash, so it is advisable to scatter it in late autumn into the soil around the tree trunk in an amount of 1 - 2 tbsp. per plant.
Caring for standard currants also comes down to regular removal of weeds and loosening the soil around the trunk.Mulch it several times a season with mowed grass or compost.
How to form standard currants
The formation of standard currants is carried out according to the following rules:
- on a purchased seedling, the strongest, strongest stem growing at a right angle to the ground is selected, the rest are removed at the root;
- determine the height of the trunk and cut out all the side branches up to this point;
- the currant seedling is wrapped in black, light-proof film along the entire length of the stem;
- in the first year they pinch off the top;
- in early spring the following year, pinch out all the lateral shoots;
- the next 2 - 3 years carry out the same actions until the standard of the desired shape is formed.
All forming work begins to be carried out in early spring, before the buds bloom on the plant. Most often, a currant trunk is formed in a spherical or spherical shape. All broken, damaged and weak branches are removed annually in early spring using traditional sanitary pruning. In the fall, the apical shoots are also pinched, which will allow the dormant buds to wake up and form new branches. Every 5 - 7 years, standard currants need anti-aging pruning, which is done in stages with the removal of 1 - 2 branches. New root growth is completely cut out immediately when it appears - in summer or autumn.
Preparing for winter
Work to prepare berry crops for winter comes down to mulching the tree trunk circle with rotted manure or peat and covering young seedlings with burlap, a special covering material that is tied with ropes for strong fixation. In regions with a mild climate and a lot of snow, bushes are not covered.
Video with useful tips on how to grow standard currants:
Diseases and pests
Like other shrubs, currants on a trunk are most often exposed to the following diseases and pests:
- fungal disease - anthracnose, characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the leaves;
- powdery mildew, in which young branches, berries, ovaries and leaves are covered with a white coating;
- white spotting;
- spider mite;
- fire
Diseases and pests are controlled using insecticides. Timely treatment will prevent them from severely damaging the bushes and leading to their death. The main rule of prevention is adherence to correct agricultural technology when planting and caring for standard currants. This includes regular weeding, getting rid of old and weak branches, seasonal feeding and avoiding excessive waterlogging of the soil. It is worth saying that berry crops in standard form are less likely to be attacked by pests and fungal diseases, since they are better illuminated by the sun, thanks to the specific shape of the crown. Shrub forms are denser, which makes them more attractive to pests and diseases.
Reproduction
Standard currants are propagated by cuttings. For this:
- in mid-summer, in July, choose a strong, strong branch and cut out a stalk on which there should be 5 buds;
- plant it in fertile soil with the addition of sand, deepening it so that 1 bud remains on the surface;
- in summer they carry out standard care - moistening the soil, removing weeds, carefully loosening;
- in autumn, the young seedling is covered with fallen leaves;
- in the spring, all young basal shoots are removed, leaving only one shoot;
- at the beginning of summer, the young shoot is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, at the end of summer - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
- do not forget to water the seedling regularly;
- the next year, the young shoot is cut to a length of 80 - 85 cm and 3 - 4 upper, well-developed buds are left, removing all the rest;
- in the fall, a new tree is planted in a permanent place, according to the above planting scheme.
Conclusion
Standard currants require a creative approach, because thanks to their decorative properties, you can use them to create berry alleys from mini trees or to designate certain areas in the garden. The main thing is to show your imagination! Well, an advantage to this will be a rich harvest of tasty, healthy berries, which can be consumed both fresh and for processing.
