Why red and black currants do not bear fruit: what are the reasons, what to do

Despite the deep-rooted opinion that currants are an unpretentious plant that produces a harvest in any conditions, there are exceptions. It happens that black currants do not bear fruit, although the bush looks healthy outwardly and blooms, but it is not possible to wait for the berries.

The gardener needs to find out the reason for the lack of harvest; there is no need to rush to uproot the bush as unfit. Perhaps agricultural practices were violated or a bush disease was to blame. Only after analyzing the situation and studying possible causes should one draw a conclusion about what actions to take to correct the situation.

When does currant begin to bear fruit?

Depending on climatic conditions, black currants begin to grow in the spring, from late March to mid-April. On it the buds begin to move a little earlier than on the red one. Fruit clusters appear at the end of shoots growing from mixed buds. They are evenly distributed along the entire length of the branch.The shoots of the second year are considered the most productive. The largest berries are tied on their upper part. The growth of four-year-old shoots produces small berries that quickly fall off. On branches older than 4 years the growth is weak and the berries are defective. Such shoots do not bear fruit, they gradually dry out, and are replaced by new, young shoots from the base of the bush, from the root collar. For gardeners, shoots no older than three years old are of interest; the rest should be cut out on time.

Red currant bears fruit most strongly on shoots of 2-5 years old and older. On its skeletal branches, at the very top, fruit branches grow, where flower buds bloom. The bulk of the berries are located on the tier located between the growth of last year and this year.

Despite the fact that blackcurrant buds bloom earlier, the red one blooms first. Its flowering period is about 10 days. The flowers of berry bushes are pollinated by bees, so the presence of apiaries near the garden significantly increases the future harvest.

The ovaries form quickly: by mid-July the berries are ready. You must not miss the time of collection so that they do not fall off. There is no particular difference in the ripening time of berries between early and late varieties. The exception is black currant Harmony, which ripens 2 weeks later than other varieties.

The berry bush bears fruit annually. The size of the harvest depends on the variety, adherence to agricultural technology, and proper pruning. Black currants begin to bear full fruit from the fourth year after planting, red currants from the second.

Why currants don't bloom

It has been noticed that black currants growing in the forest most often have no problems with flowering and bear fruit well.Unfortunately, this does not always apply to berry bushes growing in garden plots. If young plants bloom, then adults may not even set buds, much less bear fruit. A bush is considered old if its age exceeds 15 years. If you do not carry out timely pruning for the purpose of rejuvenation, do not give it additional feeding, then such a specimen will have to be uprooted and disposed of.

Some gardeners note that black currants do not bloom, although its bushes are young, develop well, have a lush bright green crown, and powerful growth. No amount of feeding, watering, or careful care can make them bloom. The reason is that the plant “fattens” - increases green mass due to the high nitrogen content in the soil. In order for flowers to appear on currants, it is necessary to eliminate the imbalance in the supply of nutrients, limit nitrogen fertilizers, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the roots.

To renew flowering, experienced gardeners advise:

  • plant different varieties of currants on the site;
  • protect plants from late frosts by all available means;
  • maintain a distance between bushes of 1 m;
  • use potato peelings for feeding;
  • regularly cut out old, damaged and diseased branches;
  • carry out periodic spraying with Bordeaux mixture.

Why are there no berries on currants?

Even if you have powerful bushes, a complete absence of diseases and pests on them, and strong flowering in the spring, you may not get the desired harvest. In the first two weeks after flowering, the ovaries fall off and the plant does not bear fruit. The phenomenon is associated with complete or partial sterility of the variety.Such black currants produce berries only under the condition of cross-pollination, when pollen from bushes of other varieties falls on the flowers. The most self-fertile varieties include:

  • Vologda;
  • Belarusian sweet;
  • Openwork;
  • Dashkovskaya.

If it is impossible to plant highly self-fertile black currants, you should purchase several varieties for cross-pollination.

The reason for the lack of berries on a bush may be the acquisition of low-yielding non-varietal plants that look powerful, have dense foliage and do not bear fruit. This variety is considered a weed.

In addition to the indicated reasons why black currants do not bear fruit, the reasons may be the following:

  • cold weather, when the piercing spring wind sharply reduces the possibility of pollination by insects;
  • viral diseases that prevent the formation of ovaries, leading to blackcurrant infertility;
  • planting in a shaded place where the plant stops bearing fruit;
  • lack of moisture in the soil.

Wrong choice of seedling

Black currants may not bear fruit if the seedling is chosen incorrectly or the planting material is of poor quality. When purchasing it, you should pay attention to a number of characteristics:

  • the root system should be highly developed (up to 20 cm), branched;
  • shoots - reach a length of 50 cm;
  • There should be no leaves on the seedling.

If they are present, plants planted in autumn freeze slightly in winter. There is a loss of moisture through the leaves, and the blackcurrant root can be overdried, which has a detrimental effect on its rooting and further development. Before planting, the root system should be shortened slightly and soaked in water for several hours.

Gardeners often complain that even if all the rules for choosing a seedling are followed, red currants do not bear fruit for 2 - 3 years after planting. The reason is damage to flowers by return frosts or death of fruit buds in winter. This occurs due to the fact that the variety was incorrectly selected for a specific climatic zone. Thus, varieties for the southern regions of Russia cannot withstand the harsh conditions of the North-West, the Urals and Siberia. In such plants, the buds begin to grow early and, when exposed to low temperatures, do not bloom or bear fruit. It is possible that entire last year's shoots, where the main crop should be formed, may freeze out. If they die, there is no way to wait for the berries.

Important! It is necessary to select and purchase zoned varieties of black currants that can successfully grow, bloom and bear fruit in certain climatic conditions of the region.

Improper care

Violation of the basic rules for caring for shrubs can lead to infertility of black currants:

  • incorrect choice of site;
  • improper planting or transplantation;
  • non-compliance with the frequency and norms of watering plants;
  • lack of regular annual pruning;
  • illiterate application of fertilizing;
  • lack of preventive inspections and treatments for diseases and pests.

The best place for black currants is a lighted area with slight shading. Berry bushes do not bear fruit in wetlands, pits, depressions, where cold air stagnates during return frosts, and the risk of developing pathologies increases. When the garden is located in a lowland, special mounds are made for planting black currants.

Placing bushes next to a fence leads to a decrease in yield if the distance from it is less than 1 m.It is worth considering that red currants are planted at a distance of 1.25 m between bushes and 2 m between rows; black - placed at a distance of 2.5 m between bushes and 2.5 m between rows. Only at such a distance do they bear fruit successfully

Watering should be carried out at least 4 times per season. In hot and dry summers, 50 liters of water should be poured under each bush weekly. Otherwise, black and red currants do not bear fruit, or the berries ripen, but are very small.

Pruning of old, dry, damaged branches should be carried out annually in the fall. It leads to the formation of a strong blackcurrant bush and an increase in its yield.

The plant will actively bear fruit if fertilizers are applied in a timely manner: in the spring - nitrogen, during the setting and ripening of berries - phosphorus and potassium.

Important! With nitrogen-containing fertilizing carried out in September and later, young shoots begin intensive growth and do not ripen by winter, their buds freeze out, and fruiting is not observed.

To prevent diseases, gardeners recommend treating with Bordeaux mixture, herbal infusions, and boiling water (in early spring).

Adverse weather conditions

Before purchasing a seedling, you should make sure that it is suitable for specific climatic conditions and zoned for the region of growth. If a plant has a low level of frost resistance and is purchased for an area where snowless winters, severe frosts, and cold northern winds are common, then freezing of the buds is inevitable. Such black currants will suffer and most likely will not bloom or bear fruit during spring and early autumn frosts.

Blackcurrant varieties that do well in the southern regions include:

  • Early sweet;
  • Dove;
  • Gulliver;
  • Overture.

Planting and growing them in the North-Western regions of Russia can lead to freezing of the buds and the absence of ovaries.

The most resistant to low air temperatures include varieties zoned for Siberia and the Urals, capable of bearing fruit in harsh climatic conditions:

  • Bagheera;
  • Ural beauty;
  • Kola souvenir.

The spring return of cold weather can occur in any region and lead to shedding of the ovaries after flowering. Experienced gardeners recommend spraying to protect blackcurrant bushes from frost. Moisten not only the crown of the plants several times a night, but also the soil under them. Everything is covered with a thin crust of ice. When it thaws, heat is released, saving shoots, flowers, and ovaries from death. This method of protection should be combined with the traditional covering of plants with non-woven material, burlap. Such methods will increase the chances that the plant will bear fruit successfully.

Diseases and pests

The berry harvest on black currants may be absent due to pest attacks and disease.

The most common pathology is terry or reversion.

Among its main symptoms:

  • lengthening of leaves, changing their shape;
  • disappearance of berry aroma;
  • flowers are deformed, stretched and painted dirty pink;
  • a massive barren flower or a torn ovary develops.

If such symptoms are present, the plant cannot be saved. Simply cutting out branches will not help; the plant will not begin to bear fruit. It is necessary to uproot the entire bush and burn it. Black currants cannot be planted in the place where it grew for at least 5 years. If you do not take such actions, then all the bushes will soon be affected by terry.

American powdery mildew significantly reduces blackcurrant yields.

Among its symptoms:

  • the appearance of a white coating on young leaves;
  • transition of the lesion to berries and old leaves;
  • twisting and further death.

For treatment, spraying with phytosporin, Bordeaux mixture, ash or soda solution, and serum is used. Branches that turn black as a result of powdery mildew are cut off and disposed of.

Among the diseases of black currant are goblet and columnar rust, which are of fungal origin, weaken the plants, prevent them from bearing fruit, and significantly reduce the yield if measures are not taken.

The main pests include:

  • bud mite - affects young buds, developing inside and swelling them;
  • glass butterfly - leaves wither, ovaries fall off;
  • ants - eat the inside of the flowers.
Important! You should regularly inspect the plants and, if necessary, use chemicals or traditional recipes to kill pests.

What to do if currants bloom but do not bear fruit

The gardener’s actions depend on the reason for the lack of fruiting after flowering:

  • if the planting location is incorrect, transplant the seedling in the fall to a more suitable place;
  • acidic soil - liming it;
  • the plant “fattens” - reduce soil fertility by adding clay soil, ash, bone meal;
  • “aging” of the bush - carry out preventive pruning;
  • lack of moisture - increase watering;
  • lack of self-pollination - plant honey plants nearby;
  • terry - cut off diseased shoots or destroy the entire bush;
  • attack by insect pests - treat with chemicals.

Preventive measures for abundant fruiting

In order for the plant to fully bear fruit, it is necessary to perform a number of actions that will ensure a rich harvest and prevent factors that can reduce it:

  1. Plant several varieties of black currants with different flowering periods.
  2. Select varieties zoned for a specific area.
  3. Do not thicken the plantings of shrubs.
  4. Properly feed blackcurrants with potato peelings, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers;
  5. Follow a watering and pruning schedule.
  6. Conduct periodic preventive inspections of bushes, and if diseases or pests are detected, take immediate action.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why black currants do not bear fruit. Most of them can be corrected by changing your attitude towards caring for shrubs. Thanks to the huge selection of varieties, it is not difficult to choose a self-fertile blackcurrant that is suitable in all respects, or several bushes capable of cross-pollination. With careful attention to the plants, any gardener will always receive a decent harvest of black currant berries and correct all care deficiencies, if any.

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