Content
Persimmon remains an unusual exotic for Russian gardeners, and this is easily explained by the fact that the climate in most regions is very far from optimal. However, the tree is still found in private plots. It develops quite slowly, therefore, in order to shorten the interval between planting and harvesting the first harvest, it is recommended to graft persimmon. The same procedure allows you to “raise” the cold resistance and endurance of the plant.
Is it necessary to graft persimmon?
Grafting is one of the most popular and effective methods of propagating “cultivated” plants. It is also suitable for persimmons. For trees grown in optimal or close to optimal conditions, planting of seedlings is mainly practiced to obtain new specimens. But in regions far from the natural habitat of persimmons, its grafting is an almost mandatory procedure:
- It allows you to increase overall endurance, stress resistance, and most importantly, frost resistance. In Russia, for example, a heat-loving plant does not survive in regions with a harsher climate than in the Lower Volga region.Grafting allows you to obtain crops in the Central region.
- For Russia, persimmon is an exotic crop that is not very popular among gardeners. Accordingly, difficulties arise with purchasing seedlings, and their prices increase. For grafting, one cutting or bud is enough.
- There is no risk of getting a “pig in a poke”: the taste, fruit size, and other characteristics of the persimmon from which the grafting material is taken are known in advance. When buying a seedling, there are often cases of deception on the part of sellers.
Most varieties and hybrids of persimmon are heat-loving; grafting can increase their frost resistance
The difference between grafting persimmon at home and outdoors
The persimmon grafting procedure follows a single algorithm, and it does not matter whether the tree grows in open ground or at home. The only important nuance: both the scion and the rootstock must be of the same type - either “outdoor” or “indoor”. If this condition is not met during grafting, it will not be successful due to unequal growth rates. In addition, it is hampered by varying volume requirements for water and nutrients.
What tree can persimmon be grafted onto?
The best option for grafting persimmon is a tree of the same genus.In Russia, in order to increase its frost resistance, the varieties most tolerant to low temperatures are chosen as a rootstock - Virginia or Caucasian persimmon.
It is quite possible to grow a persimmon rootstock from a house of seeds, but only by stocking up on planting material in excess
This is the only possible case of using persimmon as a rootstock. In principle, according to the “stone fruit to stone fruit” rule, grafting cuttings or buds of plums, cherries, cherries, cherry plums onto it can give the desired result, but such a procedure has no practical benefit.
At home, amateur flower growers are experimenting with persimmon grafting, using as rootstock almost any seedlings grown independently from seeds - citrus fruits, figs, mangoes, pomegranates, avocados, and so on. However, with such a combination of scion and rootstock, the resulting tree will definitely not bear fruit. In addition, the experience of flower growers shows that the result of grafting is characterized by capriciousness in care, reduced immunity and increased demands on cultivation conditions.
An almost similar result is obtained by grafting persimmon onto apple, pear, plum, cherry and other fruit trees familiar to Russian gardeners growing in open ground; the resulting “hybrid” will, at best, form foliage and bloom, but not bear fruit. Such a tree will definitely not live long.
“Interspecific” hybrids obtained by grafting are not initially distinguished by their viability
Optimal timing of persimmon grafting
Under natural conditions, the active growing season for persimmon begins early. The varieties and hybrids bred by breeders in most cases inherit this feature. Vaccination should begin before active sap flow begins. At home and in a climate that is not very suitable for persimmons, this is the end of February or March. If it is cultivated in open ground under optimal conditions, the timing is shifted to January-February.
A necessary condition for successful persimmon grafting is positive temperature.
Required materials and tools
The list of necessary tools depends on the chosen method. For grafting using the split method you will need:
- pruner or saw;
- sharpened knife;
- a flat screwdriver or other tool, a device with which you can “fix” the split.
A special grafting pruner allows you to make cuts that ensure the most accurate alignment of the scion and rootstock
Budding requires the gardener to have:
- pruning shears or saw;
- special budding knife.
In any case, to prevent pathogenic fungi or other pathogens from entering the cuts made during the persimmon grafting process, you will need a purchased or homemade garden varnish. Until the scion and rootstock grow together, the entire structure will need to be fixed using plastic film, electrical tape or a special grafting tape.
The main feature of a high-quality budding knife is a thin, very well sharpened blade.
How to graft persimmon
The experience of gardeners shows that grafting persimmons in most cases gives the desired result.But only if you take into account an important nuance: persimmon juice, rich in tannins, oxidizes very quickly in the open air, forming a “film” on the cuts that prevents the fusion of the scion and rootstock. To avoid this, the knife, pruning shears, and saw used are sprayed with a solution of Ascorutin from a fine spray bottle before starting work.
For a different type of persimmon
The procedure requires a thorough knowledge of the technique, practical skills, accuracy and speed of movements. Therefore, before you start grafting persimmons, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with videos published by more experienced gardeners and “practice” on “unnecessary” trees and cuttings or buds.
Grafting into clefts is the most popular method among beginning gardeners. It is even suitable for trees that have suffered from unsuccessful treatments in the past. For persimmons, the method is optimal, since the grafting is carried out before the beginning of the active growing season.
It goes according to the following algorithm:
- Cut the rootstock horizontally, leaving a “stump” of the trunk or shoot. Thoroughly “clean” its surface, getting rid of dirt and wood.
- Clear the lower part of the scion cutting from the bark and cut it with a wedge. The length of each side should be approximately 3-4 times the diameter of the cutting.
- Make a vertical split in the surface of the “stump” of sufficient depth to accommodate a wedge-shaped cut on the persimmon scion. Insert a flathead screwdriver or a wooden wedge inside, preventing it from closing.
- Insert the graft into the split, remove the tool.
- Wrap the grafting site with plastic tape or electrical tape, securely fixing it and pressing the scion tightly to the rootstock.
Some gardeners skip the last step because a tight “clamp” is created without outside help.
Budding is a more complex method of persimmon grafting. Since the procedure is carried out before the start of sap flow, a bud formed last season is used.
You need to do this:
- Clean the grafting site on the rootstock, cutting off all “unnecessary” branches, getting rid of dust and dirt.
- Make a “T” cut into the bark without damaging the wood underneath. The operation is quite delicate; it is better to use a scalpel or razor blade if you do not have a budding knife.
- Cut off the scion - an elliptical “shield” of bark with a bud in the middle 3-4 cm long.
- Carefully bend the bark to the sides on the sides of the vertical cut, insert a “shield” into it so that its closed edges do not touch the kidney. Trim off the “excess” bark on the scion that sticks out from the top.
- Wrap the “shield” crosswise to the shoot or trunk with electrical tape or grafting tape, leaving the bud in the open air. Cover with garden varnish.
- Gradually loosen the tie as the shoot formed from the grafted bud grows. At the beginning of the next season or when it reaches a length of 10 cm, remove it completely.
Sometimes, for grafting by budding, a cross-shaped incision is made in the bark of the rootstock; in principle, this will not affect the success of the procedure
To another culture
The procedure for grafting persimmon onto any other plants is no different from the one that involves “closely related” scion and rootstock.However, the resulting tree is likely to be decorative rather than fruit-bearing.
Possible mistakes
The success of persimmon grafting directly depends not only on compliance with the algorithm of actions, but also on knowledge of important nuances. Most often, novice gardeners forget about the following points:
- All tools must be sharply sharpened, cutting edges must not have burrs. Otherwise, the bark and wood on the cuts of the persimmon rootstock and scion are seriously injured.
- Cuts should be made in a smooth, continuous motion. It is impossible to tightly combine “fractured” wood; the scion and rootstock will not grow together.
- The blades must be disinfected before each cut so as not to introduce pathogenic microflora into the tissue junction when grafting persimmons.
- If the procedure is carried out too early, the scion will dry out before the rootstock “awakens”, not receiving the necessary nutrition. If persimmon is grafted too late, the junction of the tissues most often becomes moldy or rots.
- A small area of contact between the scion and rootstock reduces the chances of successful persimmon grafting.
A saturated solution of potassium permanganate is quite suitable for disinfecting instruments.
Conclusion
Before trying to graft persimmon, you need to study the algorithm and important nuances of the procedure. This is a fairly delicate, almost “surgical” operation, the success of which depends on many factors. In particular, it is ensured by the skills of the gardener, the quality of the tools used, the correct choice of timing, and competent further care of the plant.In the Russian climate, persimmon grafting is the most effective way to obtain a more viable, “stress-resistant” and frost-resistant plant.
