Content
- 1 Choosing the right variety
- 2 How to choose an apricot seedling for planting
- 3 When is it better to plant apricots: in spring or autumn?
- 4 A set of preparatory measures and some nuances of cultivation
- 5 How to plant an apricot correctly
- 6 Aftercare and cultivation of apricot
- 7 Possible problems when growing apricots
- 8 Diseases and pests
- 9 Conclusion
Apricot is traditionally considered a heat-loving crop that thrives and bears fruit in the mild southern climate. However, it is quite possible to grow it in central Russia, the Urals or Siberia, although this will require some effort from the gardener. The key to success will be the correctly selected variety, as well as compliance with all the necessary subtleties of planting and caring for the plant in a particular region.
Choosing the right variety
Attempts to create apricot varieties adapted for cultivation in the harsh and cold climatic conditions of the middle zone have been made by domestic breeders since the mid-19th century. Thanks to the painstaking work of I.V. Michurin and his followers, varieties with high frost-resistant and winter-hardy characteristics were developed.
For the Urals and Siberia, where winter temperatures sometimes reach 30–40 degrees below zero, apricot varieties are recommended that:
- tolerate frost and sudden temperature changes well;
- resistant to spring frosts;
- are not afraid of prolonged thaws;
- able to tolerate excess stagnant moisture;
- insensitive to sunburn (not only in summer).
Examples of suitable varieties: Akademik, Khabarovsky, Amur, Sibiryak Baikalova, Zolotoy Sibiryak, Kichiginsky, Snezhinsky, Honey, Uralets, Northern Lights, Mountain Abakan.
As for central Russia (in particular, the Moscow region) with snowy winters and short-term frosts, as well as warm but humid and not always sunny summers, varieties such as Iceberg, Countess, Monastyrsky, Lel, Favorit, Aquarius, Tsarsky are zoned there , Alyosha, Red-cheeked, Varyag, Hurricane, Zeus.
The fruits of these apricots are smaller than those of their southern counterparts, and their fresh taste is usually less sweet and aromatic.However, heat-loving varieties from Ukraine, Moldova or southern Russia simply will not take root in the middle zone and further north.
The following characteristics will help you choose from the apricot varieties zoned in the middle zone the optimal one for planting on your own plot:
- productivity;
- regularity of fruiting;
- tree growth vigor;
- ability to self-pollinate;
- resistance to pests and diseases;
- size and taste of the fruit.
The fruiting period of apricots also plays an important role:
Groups of varieties | Fruit ripening dates (approximate for the middle zone) |
Early | June 25 – July 5 |
Mid-early | July 5–15 |
Medium term | July 15–25 |
Late | July 25 – early August |
How to choose an apricot seedling for planting
Having decided on a variety suitable for the central climate, it is equally important to purchase high-quality planting material. Trees of the first or second year are considered the best.
Signs of a varietal seedling suitable for the middle zone:
- a clearly visible grafting site on the root collar;
- powerful, dense, developed roots without signs of freezing;
- part of the trunk approximately 50 cm from the root is smooth, healthy, without thorns or any defects;
- The more living buds a seedling has, the better.
For the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to choose two-year-old plants with a closed root system. Such seedlings have a better chance of taking root.
Where and when to buy seedlings
It is recommended to purchase truly high-quality varietal material before planting from specialized nurseries, garden centers, and at seasonal fairs or exhibitions.
When is it better to plant apricots: in spring or autumn?
The preferred season for planting apricots in the ground depends on the climatic and weather conditions of the region:
- in the Urals and Siberia, it is strongly recommended to plant apricot seedlings in the spring - in this case, the trees have time to take root well before winter frosts, which significantly reduces the risk of freezing in the first year;
- in central Russia, apricots can be planted both in spring and autumn - however, there is an opinion that “autumn” plants take root better.
A set of preparatory measures and some nuances of cultivation
When starting to plant apricots in the middle zone and to the north, the gardener must correctly select the location on the site and adhere to the rules of technology.
How to choose a place to plant an apricot
Correctly defined location:
- located on a slight hill;
- protected from east and north winds, as well as drafts (for example, against a wall or fence);
- it is well warmed up by the sun - the heat received in the summer will help the seedlings survive the winter safely;
- the soil is rich in microelements and well drained;
- The groundwater level in the area is not higher than 2.5 m.
Compatibility of apricot with other fruit trees
Apricot is considered to be an “individualist” - it does not tolerate proximity to most fruit crops common in the middle zone. Thus, planting it in close proximity to cherries, sweet cherries, pears, apple trees, rowan trees, and walnuts is extremely undesirable. Apricot and other large plantings should be separated from each other by at least 10 m.
Some stone fruits can become acceptable neighbors for apricots: cherry plum, sloe, dogwood, Russian or Chinese plum.
It should be remembered that the distance between apricots when planting a garden directly depends on their height. Tall and medium-sized trees are planted at a distance of at least 5 m. Low varieties can be placed in a checkerboard pattern, leaving approximately meter gaps between them.
Does apricot need a pollinator?
Depending on how apricot is pollinated, there are varieties:
- self-fertile (20–40% of ovaries are fertilized by their own pollen);
- partially self-fertile (10–20% of the ovaries are formed from their own pollen);
- self-sterile (able to fertilize less than 5% of their own ovaries).
Even for self-fertile apricots in the middle zone, the presence of nearby trees of a different variety, flowering and bearing fruit at the same time, can significantly increase productivity. For successful fruiting of self-sterile varieties, pollen from another variety of apricot is simply necessary.
It is reliably known that for successful cross-pollination it is best to plant 2-3 varieties of the same species nearby. Thus, it is most reliable to select a pollinator for apricots in central Russia among apricots, guided by recommendations developed for specific cultivars.
Preparing the soil for planting apricots
The planting hole for apricots should be large (about 0.8 by 0.8 m). The soil mixture for spring planting in the middle zone is prepared in the fall, and for autumn - at least two weeks before planting the seedling in the ground.
Mixture composition:
- humus (1–2 buckets);
- ash (about 1 cup);
- superphosphate (700 g);
- potassium sulphide (approximately 400 g).
A layer of drainage is poured at the bottom of the hole, then the prepared mixture is laid, a layer of ordinary soil is placed on top of it, and left until planting.
Planting apricot in autumn
It is believed that autumn planting is preferable for the middle zone. You just shouldn’t do it too late so that the tree has time to take root before frost sets in.
How to properly plant an apricot in the fall is worth considering in detail:
- in the chosen place you need to dig a hole 2 times larger than the size of the root system of the seedling;
- if the plant is in a container, you should water it well, then remove it along with a lump of earth;
- before planting an apricot with an open root system, it is recommended to keep the seedling for about a day in water or in a clay mash;
- place the tree in the hole, straightening the roots if they are open;
- fill the hole with soil and compact it;
- water the plant well (2-3 buckets of water);
- tie the apricot to a support (peg);
- mulch the surface of the tree trunk circle with dry soil, peat, sawdust.
How to plant an apricot correctly
All the recommendations given above also explain how to plant apricots in the spring. The step-by-step instructions for this process are identical to the rules for autumn planting in the middle zone. However, it will be useful to know some features associated with the climatic region where the tree will grow.
Secrets of planting apricots in the Urals in spring
Here are a few subtleties regarding how to properly plant an apricot in the spring in the Southern Urals and care for it after planting:
- during the period of thaws and snow melting, you should carefully monitor that water does not accumulate in the tree trunk circle;
- if a cold night is expected (spring return frosts or simply a sharp change in temperature), Ural gardeners advise carrying out smoking - setting fire to wet straw or a special smoke bomb in an area with trees;
- for better pollination, the crown of a flowering apricot is often sprayed with honey dissolved in water - this additionally attracts bees to it;
- common diseases in this region are clasterosporiasis and moniliosis, the main attention should be paid to the prevention and control of them;
- Even frost-resistant varieties of apricots growing in the Urals definitely need shelter for the winter.
Chelyabinsk gardeners V. and N. Chernenko share the secrets of growing apricots in the Urals in a video
Planting and caring for apricots in Siberia
What you should know when planning to grow apricots in the Siberian climate:
- At the planting site, it is recommended to additionally create an artificial elevation - pour a mound or a small earthen rampart;
- The quality of seedlings plays an important role - for northern climates it is best to buy them in containers, grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks;
- It is not recommended to grow self-rooted apricots in Siberia;
- It is better to plant apricots in spring as early as possible, waiting for the soil to thaw by about 10–12 cm;
- in contrast to the general rules for the middle zone, pruning the plant “into a ring” is not allowed;
- in Siberia, apricots often suffer from hawthorn and clasterosporia blight, so prevention is very important.
Useful information on growing apricots in Siberia is presented in this video
Growing apricots in the middle zone: planting and care
Those who want to grow apricots in the temperate continental climate of the middle zone are given the following recommendations:
- in the middle zone, seedlings of regionalized varieties of local selection can be planted, both with an open root system and purchased in containers;
- the soil should be fertile - it is desirable that earthworms be found in abundance;
- in case of a prolonged, warm autumn in the middle zone, it is recommended to water the apricots with ash diluted in water so that the growth and ripening of the shoots stops before the cold weather;
- The most dangerous pests in this region are the codling moth, leaf roller and aphid; the most dangerous diseases are moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, Valsa's mushroom, cytosporosis, gum disease.
Advice from experienced gardeners on growing apricots in central Russia contains a video
Planting apricots in the Moscow region in spring
For growing apricots in open ground in the Moscow region, the same tips are relevant as for the regions of the middle zone. You can add the following to them:
- optimal areas for growing apricots are in the south, southeast and southwest of Moscow;
- in gardens that often lack sun, you can install a wooden shield behind the tree, painted with white and reflecting sunlight.
Aftercare and cultivation of apricot
Agrotechnical rules for caring for apricots in central Russia, as well as in Siberian and Ural gardens, are almost the same.
Watering
In the middle zone, apricot needs moderate, but not excessive watering. An adult tree usually needs 4 waterings per season:
- during shoot growth (April);
- during or after flowering (May);
- in summer, 10–15 days before the fruits ripen;
- moisture recharging in late autumn as a measure of preparation for winter.
Top dressing
The key to good apricot fruiting in the middle climate is a sufficient amount of nutrients in the soil.
Fertilizing begins from the third year of the plant’s life:
- in spring - nitrogen fertilizers (chicken manure, urea, saltpeter);
- in the first half of summer - foliar feeding, microelements;
- after harvest, late summer or early autumn - formulations containing phosphorus and potassium, but without nitrogen.
Trimming
Apricots are pruned annually in the middle zone and further north. In the spring, frozen and dead branches are removed. In summer, a crown is formed, shoots that grow actively and densely are removed. Fall pruning of branches helps prepare the tree for winter.
Preparing apricots for winter, protecting them from rodents
Measures to prepare apricots for the cold winters of the middle zone, Siberia and the Urals:
- whitewashing the trunks and bases of the largest branches with garden lime with the addition of copper sulfate (prevention of some diseases common in the middle zone, as well as protection against sunburn);
- covering the trunks of mature trees (and young seedlings entirely) with burlap, spruce branches or artificial “breathing” material from freezing and damage by rodents;
- thorough cleaning of fallen leaves and careful loosening of the soil in the tree trunk circle;
- the crown is carefully tied with a rope so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow and ice;
- mulching the soil under the tree with peat, compost, sand and sawdust before the onset of frost.
When does apricot begin to bear fruit after planting?
The age at which an apricot begins to bear fruit depends on how it was grown:
- the grafted plant produces fruits at 3–4 years of age;
- seedling - for 4–5 years.
Possible problems when growing apricots
It happens that a farmer growing apricots in the middle zone is faced with a problem when a luxuriantly flowering tree suddenly does not produce ovaries, or does not bloom in the spring.
Why doesn't apricot bloom?
First, it should be noted that most apricot varieties produce their crops irregularly. This means that one year the tree is completely covered with fruit, and the next season there are only a few fruits hanging on it.
Possible reasons why apricots in the middle zone do not bloom on time:
- some varieties zoned in the middle zone begin to bloom not at 3, but at 6–8 years (you just have to wait);
- instead of a varietal seedling, a seedling of unknown nature was purchased;
- This variety is not suitable for the middle zone climate;
- the seedling is planted in the ground at the wrong time, in the wrong place or at the wrong time;
- the tree is frozen, sick or severely damaged by pests;
- improper care of apricots (incorrect pruning, excess fertilizer).
Why does apricot not bear fruit?
If there were a lot of flowers, but no fruit arrived, you should figure out why the apricot does not bear fruit and what to do:
External manifestations | Cause | Solution |
Apricot sheds ovaries | Nutritional deficiencies | Regular watering and fertilizing |
The tree drops flowers without even forming ovaries | Lack of pollination | Planting pollinator varieties nearby or attracting beneficial insects |
The inflorescences fell off after the night's cold snap | The flowers are frozen | Next year you need to postpone flowering 2 weeks later, cutting off the young shoots by half in June |
Apricot bears fruit well after a year | Perhaps a feature of the variety | There's no need to do anything |
Diseases and pests
The gardener will be helped by knowledge of the main diseases of apricots in the middle zone and how to combat them:
Disease | Symptoms | Prevention and treatment |
Clusterosporiasis | Brown spots on leaves that gradually turn into holes | Pruning and burning diseased branches and shoots. Spraying (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate) |
Moniliosis | Flowers fade, leaves and shoots dry out, bark cracks, fruits rot and dry out. | Destruction of affected plant organs. Spraying (Switch, Teldor, Horus, Bordeaux mixture) |
Mushroom Valsa | Orange growths on the bark that resemble cankers | Loosening the soil and pruning during the dormant period. Spraying (Switch) |
Cytosporosis | Brown “smudges” on the tips of the shoots. The bark turns red-brown and dries out, causing the death of the plant. | Removing damaged parts. Covering wounds with garden pitch. Treatment with copper sulfate. Application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers on time |
Gum treatment | Amber stains in wounds on the bark | Do not injure the tree. Proper pruning and whitewashing of trunks. The wound should be cleaned, disinfected with copper sulfate and covered with garden pitch. |
It is also worth paying attention to the most common pests in central Russia that attack apricot trees:
Pest | Appearance and manifestations | Prevention and treatment |
hawthorn | White butterfly with black dots along the body. Many small holes in the leaves affected by its caterpillars | Shaking off caterpillars from the crown. Destruction of dry leaves containing eggs. Treating wood with insecticides, decoction of tansy, wormwood |
codling moth | A small gray-brown butterfly that lays eggs in the ovaries of fruits, which are then devoured by caterpillars | Collection and destruction of affected fruits and fallen leaves. Digging the trunk circle. Spraying with Chlorophos, Entobacterin, sodium chloride solution |
leaf roller | Spotted brown moth eating leaves. Its caterpillars damage the bark | Destruction of damaged areas of the bark. Then it needs to be treated with a copper-containing preparation and garden varnish. Treatment with Chlorophos after harvest |
Aphid | Accumulations on young shoots and leaves of small black bugs drinking their juice | Treatment with Fitoverm or Karbofos before fruiting begins. Fighting anthills |
Conclusion
Of course, cultivating apricots in the middle zone, in the Urals or Siberia is much more difficult and troublesome than in the southern regions. However, thanks to the success of breeders, today there are many varieties that can withstand frosty winters, long thaws and temperature changes. A set of recommendations for planting and caring for plants has been developed and tested in practice, taking into account the difficult features of the middle zone climate.A patient and attentive gardener who takes note of them and responsibly approaches the choice of variety for his plot will certainly rejoice in the harvest of ripe, aromatic fruits, even if he does not live in warm regions.
