Gray giant rabbit: description of the breed, photos, reviews

The Gray Giant rabbit breed, developed in the Soviet Union, is very closely related to the largest breed, the Flanders Risen. No one knows where the Flanders rabbit came from in Belgium. But this was the first large rabbit in those days. Actually, today no one would call the old Flanders rabbit large. The weight of the original Belgian giant barely reached 5 kg. But if you remember that the weight of the ancestor of all breeds - the wild rabbit - is about one and a half kilograms, then it turns out that the Flanders was indeed gigantic at that time.

In the photo there is a wild rabbit of a red color, in a cage under it there is a medium-sized black rabbit weighing 2 - 2.5 kg.

Immediately after the war, Belgian Risen was brought to the Poltava region to the Petrovsky fur farm, most likely for breeding for meat, since the skin Flanders not very good quality. But the Belgian giant is a rabbit, poorly adapted to the conditions of even Ukrainian frosts. In addition, the Soviet government needed not only meat, but also skin. The Flanders rabbit was crossed with local outbreds to produce animals that were more frost-resistant.Further, the breed was developed using the method of breeding crossbreeds with the selection of individuals that were desirable in type and characteristics. The result of selection was registered as a breed in 1952.

The video shows an intelligent comparative analysis of the Flanders Risen and Gray Giant breeds.

Description of the breed

The “gray giant” rabbit turned out to be smaller than the Flemish giant, having inherited from the Belgian breed its rather large dimensions, exceeding the size of local Ukrainian rabbits. Also, the gray giant inherited from Flanders a large bone structure and significant weight. Local rabbits added vitality, resistance to weather conditions and fertility to the “gray giant” breed.

The colors of gray giant rabbits can be:

  • white;
  • black;
  • dark grey;
  • agouti, which produces either zonal gray or zonal red - the so-called hare colors.
On a note! As a result of mutation from rabbit breeds The “gray giant” gave birth to a “golden” rabbit.

This is an option that has only a romantic name. In fact, the colors of this branch of the gray giant can range from light red to dark red with a light yellow undercoat.

Standard for rabbits of the “gray giant” breed

General appearance: large bony animal with a massive long body. Large, rustic head, more elongated in the front part than that of the Flandre. The ears are V-shaped, rather large and fleshy. The tips are somewhat rounded. Less “burdocky” than the Belgian giant. The chest circumference is at least 37 cm. Body length is from 55 cm. The back is wide and straight. The croup is wide and rounded. The paws are powerful, wide-set, straight.

Important! The rabbit must have high wool density, which is very important when making fur products.

When making fur products, the skins are stretched, obtaining a more even shape and, in the case of expensive fur, saving material.

The average weight of a female rabbit is 5 kg, a female rabbit is 6 kg. The weight of rabbits of this breed can range from 4 to 7 kg.

Breed defects

The exterior defects of the gray giant are no different from the defects of other breeds of rabbits:

  • signs of rickets: markings on the front legs, narrow humped back;
  • close hock joints on the hind legs;
  • clubfoot;
  • narrow and shallow chest;
  • underweight.

The weight of a breeding giant at 2 months should be 1.5 kg; in 3 – 2 kg; at 4 – 2.6 kg. When fattening high-protein feeds for slaughter, the weight of young animals must exceed the indicated figures.

Rabbits with conformation defects should not be allowed to be bred.

Keeping gray giant rabbits

“Grey Giant” rabbits are kept according to the same rules as their more heat-loving relatives. The only difference: Russian rabbits can live outside in winter. European ones require a room protected from the cold. Otherwise the rules are the same.

Large rabbits should not be kept on a mesh floor. Although giants are often kept in sheds, they try to provide them with a smoother floor than for light broiler breeds. Due to too much weight, the wire of the mesh floor digs into the paws and damages the skin. As a result of the damage, pododermatitis occurs, the so-called corns, which are an open gate for infection to enter the rabbit’s body. It is better to make the floors in the cage smooth or from flat slats. A good option is keeping giants in ground-based enclosures.

The giant requires a larger cage than ordinary rabbits.If possible, it is necessary to provide giants with cages 1.5 times larger than for ordinary rabbits. This is especially important when breeding rabbits and keeping a queen with rabbits in an enclosure.

Advice! Giants can be kept in standard sheds and regular cages, but these must be rabbits fattened for slaughter.

It is better to use hay or straw for bedding in queen cells and cages with smooth floors. Depending on what is cheaper in specific regions. But we must remember that roughage is the basis of a rabbit’s diet. In other words, animals will eat the bedding material. For this reason, rotten hay residues should not be used as bedding.

Theoretically, sawdust can also be used, but the disadvantage of this material is that it is easy to tear it up and scatter it around. As a result, the rabbit will end up on the bare floor. Although the absorption of sawdust is better than that of hay or straw. Mixed types of bedding are often used, with sawdust laid down and hay on top.

Features of feeding giants

Giants are less picky about food than their ancestors, the Flemish rabbits. Flanders need a relatively large amount of concentrates to replenish the energy of a large body. Giants do not require as much grain feed, but are provided with high-quality, nutritious hay. The best types of hay are:

  • Timothy grass;
  • cocksfoot;
  • alfalfa.

Alfalfa contains a high percentage of protein and carotene. It is not very suitable for animals during the resting period, but is very good for rabbits during lactation.

Advice! Rabbits' teeth are constantly growing, so whenever possible they are provided with constant access to roughage.

In winter, in addition to hay, rabbits can be given tree branches and spruce paws.The branches are not very good for nutrition, as they are too rough food and can clog the intestines. But the rabbit grinds its teeth down very well, avoiding dacryocystitis.

As concentrates, animals are given:

  • barley;
  • oats;
  • wheat;
  • ground corn;
  • ready-made pellets for rabbits.

The last option is best. Such granules will not swell in the stomach and will not clog the intestines. But animals should always have water in their drinking bowls.

In addition to roughage and concentrated feed, the diet of rabbits includes succulent feed. But contrary to the belief that “the more, the better,” succulent food should be given carefully. In fact, rabbits can live quite well on hay and complete pellets.

Important! Animals should not be overfed. An obese rabbit becomes too lazy, and the fertility of female rabbits decreases.

The popular myth about carrots is nothing more than a myth. Carrots are given to rabbits very carefully due to the large amount of sugars. It can begin to ferment in the animal's stomach. They also try not to give fresh leaves of white cabbage. They are also too juicy and prone to fermentation. In this case, kohlrabi leaves can be fed without fear.

They get used to fresh grass very gradually. If this is not possible, give it only after drying in the shade. Dewy and wet grass after rain is not given at all. Although there are extreme sports enthusiasts who claim that it’s nothing to worry about. But it’s not their rabbits that will die.

In winter you can produce high-quality silage. This silage smells like sauerkraut. If the silage has an unpleasant sour or putrid odor, it should not be fed.

Breeding giants

Giants are late-maturing rabbits and should be bred after 8 months.

Advice! It’s also not worth delaying mating.The older the rabbit, the more difficult it is for her to give birth for the first time.

Giant rabbits are distinguished by good fertility, inherited from their Ukrainian ancestors. They usually bring 7 - 8 rabbits per litter. Larger numbers of rabbits are actually not good for raising as the female rabbit may not have enough milk. At birth, a giant rabbit weighs 81 g. The growth dynamics of this breed are quite high. By 10 months, the giant should already weigh about 5 kg.

Before giving birth, the female rabbit makes a nest in the queen cell, pulling out the fluff. The appearance of fluff is a sign of imminent birth. Many people advise not to disturb the female rabbit for a week after giving birth. But if the giants live on the street and their queen cells are heated, then a situation may turn out like in the video.

Inspection on the 3rd day after birth, we remove the dead offspring

In the video, however, they are not giants, but Californians, and the girl simultaneously solves the problem of what to do with an overly large litter, but the essence does not change.

Attention! It is difficult for a female rabbit to feed a litter that is too large and she must either accept the fact that the weakest ones will die, periodically removing the corpses, or place the “extra” rabbits with another queen.

If possible, you should not leave more than 8 rabbits under the rabbit.

Reviews from owners of the gray giant rabbit breed

Arsen Bulanov, p. Old Sanzhary
It was not for nothing that the gray giant was considered one of the best breeds in Soviet rabbit breeding. These rabbits may be smaller than the modern Flanders, but when converted to feed units, the output is much more economical. Where the Flander needs special feed for normal weight gain, the gray giant can get by with crushed grains from a homemade grain crusher.In the summer, the skin of a gray giant may not be very good for fur products, but a Flandre's would certainly not be any better. But in winter, due to being kept outside and covered with winter wool, the skins of gray giants are superior in quality to Flemish ones.
Stanislav Gorodov, p. Zhitkovichi
When I was about to start breeding rabbits and at the same time learn how to make skins, they twisted a finger at my temple, but advised me to get rabbits of the “gray giant” breed, as one of the most unpretentious and specially bred for Soviet realities with constant interruptions of one or the other. In general, the recommendations were justified. If it weren’t for diseases brought from abroad, I wouldn’t have any worries with these rabbits.

Conclusion

The Gray Giant is a good breed for beginners who want to try their hand at rabbit farming, but do not want to invest too much in the initial setup of the rabbitry. A gray giant can even be satisfied with being kept in a common room, but in this case, during a fight between rabbits, the skins will almost certainly suffer.

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