Content
Planting and caring for kniphofia in open ground in the Russian climate has its own characteristics. In almost all regions, except the southern ones, the plant is sent for wintering, and returned to open ground closer to the beginning of June. Despite some peculiarities, kniphofia is worth growing. Lush, bright flowers of exotic shapes will enliven any corner of the garden. The plant looks original both in single plantings and in composition with other flowers.
The history of the appearance of the kniphofia flower
Kniphofia is a perennial flower belonging to the little-known Asphodelaceae family. In nature, it grows in warm African countries, as well as in Madagascar. The flower was first discovered and described in the 18th century by a German botanist named Johann Kniephof (1704-1763). It was in his honor that the plant got its name.
Also called:
- kniphophia;
- tritome.
The flower was cultivated quite quickly - already in the 18th century, kniphofia began to appear in the gardens of Europe. Gradually, it spread widely in neighboring countries, including Russia, Turkey, the USA, and Mexico. It’s interesting that in Australia they are trying to get rid of kniphofia in every possible way. Thanks to the hot climate, it confidently took root on this continent and became one of the worst weeds, like buttercups, nettles and many other herbs.
Description and characteristics
Kniphofia flower is a medium-sized perennial herbaceous plant. It reaches a height of 60-150 cm, and some species (for example, Thomson's Kniphophia) even reach 3 m. The leaves are dense, leathery, very narrow, and resemble sabers in shape. The color is rich green. Thanks to the dense surface and small area of the foliage, it retains moisture well, so kniphofia can tolerate even long-term droughts.
The plant stands out for its unusual flowers of exotic shape. They are small, tubular, collected in lush inflorescences-ears (also reminiscent of large cones). They look impressive due to their unusual appearance and large size: they reach 10-25 cm in length. The peduncle of Kniphofia is long, leafless, round, with a smooth surface. The flowers are painted in warm shades:
- yellow;
- orange;
- red;
- coral.
Kniphofia blooms mainly in the second half of summer - July and August
The end of flowering occurs in September. If the autumn is warm, inflorescences may appear even in October. At the end of flowering, they form fruit boxes.
Winter hardiness of kniphofia
Kniphofia comes from warm countries, therefore the winter hardiness of the plant is low. Thanks to breeding work, this figure was significantly increased. Almost all types of flowers can withstand temperatures down to -15 °C. The culture can be safely grown in the southern regions (Kuban, Stavropol, North Caucasus).
In the Moscow region, in the middle zone, in the Urals, in Siberia, in the Far East, in mid-autumn, kniphofia bushes must be removed from the soil and sent to a cool room for the winter. However, all the work will pay off - the flower looks so original that it will certainly become the hallmark of the garden.
Types and varieties of kniphofia
There are 75 species in the Kniphofia genus, many of which are divided into several varieties. A description of the most popular varieties will help gardeners choose their favorite specimen for planting.
Kniphofia berry
This type of flower (Kniphofia uvaria) is tall. With proper care, kniphofia grows up to 180-200 cm. Moreover, the spike-shaped inflorescences are also very large. They reach a length of 25 cm, and the sword-shaped leaves are up to 50 cm. The flowering period is 2-2.5 months. Within this species, several varieties of kniphofia have been bred.
Dr. Kerr
The Doctor Kerr variety has rather tall peduncles.
The stems of the crop grow up to 1 m in height, while the inflorescences reach 20 cm. The color of the flowers is lemon yellow.
Ekskimo
The Eskimo variety (Popsicke) usually grows to 40-50 cm in height. Kniphofia is characterized by moderate winter hardiness - it can withstand frosts down to -22 ° C.The flowers are lemon yellow and coral (depending on the variety).
Kniphofia variety Redhot Popsicle features attractive coral-colored flowers
Orange Beauty
Orange Beauty grows up to 100 cm. The variety decorates the garden with very beautiful inflorescences of rich orange color.
Orange blossom looks spectacular against the backdrop of bright green foliage.
Fire Flame
The Kniphofia variety Fair Flame also produces bright orange flowers that resemble burning torches.
The height of the spike-shaped inflorescences of the Fire Flame variety is 25 cm
The top of the Kniphofia peduncle is fiery red, which makes the culture noticeable in any flower bed.
Large-flowered
The large-flowered form is characterized by very large inflorescences - they reach a height of 20 cm. The height of the peduncles is about 130 cm.
The flowers of this variety of kniphofia are also colored in fiery orange shades
Kniphofia hybrid
This group (Kniphofia Hybrida) includes all bred hybrids. Their advantage is good immunity and high resistance to adverse weather conditions. However, the seeds of such plants are sterile, so they must be purchased in stores. The most popular hybrid varieties of kniphofia are Cardinal, Golden Scepter, Prince Maurito, Royal Standard, Rocket, Indiana.
Cardinal
The Cardinal variety produces shoots up to 120 cm long. They produce flowers of a rich red hue.
The Cardinal variety blooms in the warmest summer month (July)
Golden Scepter (Golden Scepter)
The Kniphofia variety Golden Scepter is distinguished by good winter hardiness and lush flowering. The color of the flowers is lemon yellow.
The Golden Scepter variety produces attractive inflorescences of a delicate lemon-yellow color.
Prince Maurito
The Prince Maurito variety is medium-sized, reaching a height of 120 cm. The flowers are rich dark red and brownish in color.
Prince Maurito blooms in the first ten days of July
Royal Standard
The variety has been known for a very long time; it attracts with its beautiful yellow flowers. The height of the peduncle is on average 1 m.
Royal Standard produces reddish-yellow ears 20-25 cm long
Rocket
The Kniphofia flower variety The Rocket is a real “rocket” with bright red, crimson flowers growing on a peduncle up to 130 cm high.
Spectacular flowers of yellow-raspberry color can decorate any mixborder
Indiana
Kniphofia flower variety Indiana - medium-sized (up to 100 cm). At the same time, the flowers are very large, orange and light red.
The Indiana variety is considered one of the most beautiful among orange kniphofias.
Kniphofia Makowan
Kniphofia flower Kniphofia macowanii is small in size - up to 80 cm in height, inflorescences up to 10 cm. It has been successfully cultivated in European gardens since the 1870s.
Makowan's color range smoothly transitions from bright yellow to rich orange
Kniphofia Taka
An interesting type of kniphofia flower - Kniphofia tuckii was first discovered by researcher V. Tuck in 1892
A low-growing plant (up to 80 cm) with small inflorescences that grow up to 15 cm. It blooms for a month (all of July). This is a very showy variety with bright orange-red flowers.
Reproduction methods
You can grow kniphofia yourself from seeds. In the future, adult bushes can be divided into several divisions and transplanted to a permanent place.
This flower can be propagated in two ways - by growing seedlings from seeds (they do not have time to ripen, so seed material is purchased at the store) or by obtaining a new plant by the vegetative method (by dividing the bush).
Growing Kniphofia from seeds at home
Growing kniphofia is not very difficult: the seedlings are cared for in much the same way as with other crops. First, flower seedlings are obtained in a greenhouse, then they are planted in separate containers. The seedlings are transferred to open ground at the end of June or a little later.
When growing Kniphofia flower seedlings, you must ensure that the temperature does not drop below room temperature. During the first 2-3 weeks after planting it should be above 25-27 °C.
Dividing the bush
Dividing the kniphofia flower bush begins in late April - early May. Sequencing:
- The bush is dug up.
- Carefully separate the daughter rosettes, which are actively developing from the buds on the mother flower.
- The flowers are transplanted into new containers (organic matter is first added to the soil).
- They are transferred to open ground together with the parent plant closer to July.
Growing and caring for Kniphofia
Growing kniphofia is not very difficult. The main thing is to ensure that the flower grows at temperatures above 20-22 ° C. That is why the crop is transplanted into open ground only in the summer.
Dates of sowing and planting in the ground
It is best to plant kniphofia seeds during the following periods:
- in the middle zone - at the end of March;
- in the Urals, in Siberia - in early April;
- in the south - in early March.
In this case, you need to be guided by the fact that the flower is transplanted into open ground after the soil has completely warmed up, i.e. around July (just a few days before flowering begins). Typically, the planting time for kniphofia is as follows:
- in the middle zone - at the end of June;
- in the Urals, in Siberia - in early July;
- in the south - in the first ten days of June.
Thus, the seedlings will spend about 2.5-3 months at home. Kniphofia, grown independently, begins to produce flowers in the second or third year.
Seedlings begin to be grown at the end of March, specific dates depend on the region
Sowing Kniphofia seeds for seedlings and subsequent care
To plant kniphofia, select any container - wooden boxes, plastic containers. You can also plant flowers in pre-moistened peat tablets. This will avoid picking. When growing Kniphofia flower seedlings, you can follow these instructions:
- Buy a universal soil for flower seedlings or make it yourself based on garden soil, peat, humus and compost in the same ratio. You can add a pinch of wood ash and coarse sand.
- Disinfect the soil and containers by holding them in a solution of potassium permanganate or hydrogen peroxide, then water them with water.
- Pre-soak the seeds for several hours in a solution of a growth stimulator (Epin, Kornevin, Zircon).
- Plant them to a depth of no more than 1 cm, interval 3-4 cm.
- Moisten generously and cover with film with holes or a glass lid. It will create optimal greenhouse conditions.
- Then put the container in a warm place - temperature 25-27 degrees. It is advisable to illuminate with a phytolamp so that the daylight hours are 14-15 hours.
- Shoots appear after 2 weeks, at the same time the film can be removed.
- After the formation of 2-3 leaves, Kniphofia seedlings are dived into individual containers. At the same time, the temperature is reduced to 22-23 degrees (slightly above room temperature).
- A week after picking, Kniphofia seedlings can be fed with complex mineral fertilizer.
- Then it is grown in the same conditions, not forgetting to water regularly.
Preparing the site and soil
Choosing a place for knifofia is quite simple:
- The area should be completely open: this flower is used to growing in the hot African climate, so it needs maximum illumination. Even a small shadow is undesirable.
- If possible, the site should be protected from strong winds. It’s good if there is a fence, a house or a planting of shrubs not far from the flower.
- Also, kniphofia does not like stagnant moisture, so it is better to plant it on a small hill rather than in a lowland.
Preparing the site is quite simple. It needs to be cleaned and dug up, while breaking up all the large clods of earth - Kniphofia prefers well-loose soil. If the soil is depleted, it can be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizer at 50-60 g per 1 m2.
Planting in open ground
The flower planting algorithm is standard:
- In the prepared area, several shallow holes are formed (the rhizomes should be placed freely in them) at a distance of at least 40-60 cm.
- Then a small drainage layer is laid - small pebbles, broken bricks, expanded clay or other stones.
- Fill up the organic matter (2-3 handfuls of humus per hole). If it is not there, you can pour in mullein infusion or slurry, or add 1 tbsp. l. potassium salt and superphosphate.
- Root the seedlings, sprinkle with soil, and lightly compact it.The root collar must be completely buried. If the planting is shallow, it may be damaged by sunlight and wind.
- Water generously with warm, pre-settled (or rain) water.
- Mulch with peat, hay or other available materials.
You can immediately add potassium salt and superphosphate to the planting hole.
Care, feeding and pruning
Watering should be regular, but at the same time moderate. The top layer of soil should have time to dry out, remaining barely moist. During drought, the amount of watering can be increased to 2 times a week. In this case, the water should be at room temperature or a little warmer. It is optimal to heat it in open containers, in natural conditions (under the sun).
If fertilizers were already applied when planting the kniphofia flower, the plant does not need additional fertilizing. Starting from the next season, fertilizers are given twice:
- In April - nitrogen-containing (urea or saltpeter).
- After flowering - liquid organic matter or a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphates.
Kniphofia is pruned regularly. The optimal time is early spring. At this time, it is necessary to remove all damaged and weakened shoots, as well as yellowed leaves. The second pruning is carried out after the end of flowering: if the crop is left to winter, all shoots are cut off at the root. If it is moved indoors, this is not necessary.
Preparing for winter
Even when growing kniphofia in the south, it is advisable to hill up the bush and mulch the soil with any available material - peat, dry fallen leaves, straw, hay. The plant does not need special shelters, since the temperature in the Krasnodar Territory and neighboring regions rarely drops below -15 °C.
In other regions, the flower is dug up in mid-September or early October.It is placed in containers or boxes and stored in a cool room for the winter. It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature in the range of 8-10 °C. The lighting should be enhanced, preferably illuminated with a phytolamp so that the total length of the day is 10-12 hours (for example, 2 hours in the morning and evening). At the beginning of summer, kniphofia is transferred to open ground.
In most regions, kniphofia must be moved indoors for the winter, otherwise it will die from frost
Diseases and pests of the Kniphofia plant
The flower's immunity is quite good. If you follow the growing rules, kniphofia gets sick very rarely. However, in case of excessive watering, root rot cannot be ruled out. Therefore, as a preventive measure, you need to follow the regime.
Gnawing insects can settle on the flower. In such cases, you should immediately treat with insecticides or homemade solutions (infusion of garlic, onion peels, chili peppers, mustard powder and others).
Knifofia in landscape design
Kniphofia looks attractive in any flower bed - both in a single planting and in combination with other ornamental plants. The flower is usually planted in open places, and is also included in various compositions:
- alpine slide, rock garden;
- hedge;
- multi-tiered flower bed;
- planting along the path;
- on the shore of the reservoir.
Kniphofia always attracts attention, so it is often used in single plantings
Knifofia in a pot can become a decoration for the veranda
Conclusion
Planting and caring for kniphofia in open ground is not very difficult, although it has its own characteristics. The flower literally enlivens the space, introducing an exotic touch and creating an unusual mood.
