Content
Gardeners associate planting work with spring. However, some crops are best planted in the fall. And not only for the purpose of relieving the “hot” season, but also taking into account the physiological characteristics of the plant. In the Volga region and central Russia, the preferred time for planting apple tree seedlings and other pome crops is autumn. Here there is more time and better survival rate. The high winter hardiness of the apple tree (compared to stone fruit trees) allows the seedling to withstand the cold well. But is this true for Siberia? What features does it have? planting apple tree seedlings in Siberia in the fall, and what are the risks?
Features of the Siberian climate
Of course, the main distinguishing feature of Siberia is its harsh climate with low winter temperatures and early frosts. But there is one more feature - waterlogged soils, snowy winters and close groundwater. Of course, the last factor does not allow one to follow the classical technique of planting an apple tree when planting a garden in Siberia. The first factor for a winter-hardy apple tree, with the correct selection of varieties, is not limiting.
All the pros and cons
First, let’s figure out whether it’s even possible to plant apple tree in Siberia in autumn. Inexperienced gardeners may find spring more attractive in this regard.Planting in the spring has its disadvantages. Summer in Siberia is short, spring comes late and is often protracted with returning cold, the soil freezes deeply and takes a long time to thaw. As a result, early planting of a seedling becomes impossible, and in a short growing season, taking into account the long rooting period, the apple tree simply does not have time to prepare for the coming winter and will die. If even spring in Siberia is not ideal for planting, then why not consider autumn?
Many summer residents of Siberia, taught by bitter experience, will unanimously argue that planting an apple tree in the fall is doomed to failure. Yes, but only if this landing was carried out incorrectly and in a missed time frame.
An apple tree planted in late autumn simply will not have time to take root and produce new roots. Even if it overwinters safely (suddenly the winter will be less severe and with less winds), in the spring such a tree without a powerful root system will quickly lose moisture without having time to gain strength. And if the planting material purchased at the market is of low or questionable quality, then nothing good should be expected from such planting. Hence the negative assessment of the autumn planting period, which supposedly leads to large losses of apple tree seedlings.
Gardeners confident in their experience boldly plant an apple tree in the fall and get wonderful fruit trees. What's the secret? Let's note the main advantages of properly planting an apple tree in the fall:
- the seedlings have time to take root, the bark and buds ripen and the prepared trees go into winter;
- the root system that has had time to develop provides the crown with water and increases frost resistance;
- after winter, strengthened seedlings awaken early and begin the growing season earlier than those that will be planted in the spring;
- Due to the full growing season, young apple trees will be safely prepared for the upcoming winter and are more likely to survive it, while seedlings planted in spring in an unfavorable summer risk not surviving their first winter.
As a result, we get enough arguments for planting an apple tree in the fall. You just need to do it competently. How to avoid typical mistakes of gardeners and grow a strong and healthy apple tree?
Things to consider
Planting fruit trees in Siberian conditions has its own difficulties. The harsh and unpredictable climate requires gardeners to take conscious action. There are no sure and effective ways. It is necessary to act according to the prevailing weather conditions. But there are rules that must be followed in order for planting in the fall to be successful.
Here are the golden rules for autumn planting apple trees in Siberia:
- optimal planting time is from late August to mid-September;
- seedlings must have a closed root system or a good earthen ball;
- You should not sniff the leaves before planting, they are important for transpiration and photosynthesis; allow the seedling to complete its growing season and shed its leaves;
- do not buy seedlings with peeled leaves, since numerous wounds in the place where the petioles grow greatly weaken the plant (conscientious gardeners sell seedlings with petioles, but untrimmed leaves, otherwise the seedlings cannot be transported over long distances);
- before planting, you need to cut the crown almost in half for two reasons: damaged roots (and this is inevitable) simply will not be able to “pull” the seedling in the spring; in addition, when growing fruit trees in Siberian conditions, bush or dwarf crown formation is practiced, and such a procedure will already lay a good foundation for proper formation of the trunk;
- buy only those varieties that are approved in the region, and always on a local rootstock (Siberian apple tree, purple ranetka and dwarf forms of Siberian apple tree);
- choose a calm, cloudy day for planting, and the place for the seedling can be prepared in advance.
These are perhaps the most important recommendations adapted for Siberia. But compliance with them is not enough for good survival of the apple tree. You also need to know the intricacies of planting, taking into account the climate and soil.
Description of landing technique
Most of the well-known gardening textbooks are written in relation to the central zone and south of Russia. This is not surprising, since industrial fruit-bearing orchards and nurseries are concentrated in these regions. But is it possible to apply such experience to the Siberian region? Most likely no. The climate is different and the soils are different.
We will not dwell on the classic technique of planting an apple tree with the construction of deep holes for watering, but consider the advice of experienced and famous Siberian gardeners. Their practice will give more valuable recommendations on how to properly plant an apple tree in the fall in the harsh climate of Siberia.
The main difference between the Siberian technique of planting an apple tree and the classical one is planting in small mounds, and not in holes. Why are holes bad? Melt water accumulates in them, which leads to damping off, and return frosts threaten to rupture the root collar.But making high ridges is also overkill. This will lead to freezing of the young root system of the apple tree. The mounds should be about 35 cm. This will be enough to drain excess moisture. There should be a small hole in the root collar area to ensure free access of fresh air; it should not be covered with soil. At the same time, a planting hole is prepared, but not so deep.
The next important point in planting is the application of fertilizers. It is absurd to give specific recommendations in numbers. It all depends on the type of soil, level of fertility, structure. By applying excessive doses of mineral fertilizers, you can ruin the root system of the apple tree, and adding organic matter will lead to a decrease in growth activity. Why move deeper and wider when all the nutrients are nearby?
It is difficult for summer residents to carry out a chemical analysis of the soil to accurately calculate fertilizer rates. If the soil on the site is sufficiently structured and nutritious for other crops, when planting an apple tree you can do without fertilizers at all. Only mulch made from compost or rotted humus will remain mandatory. Such a blanket will serve the young seedling with both nutrition and additional protection from the cold.
Is drainage necessary? In Siberia, groundwater passes very close, and the drainage layer does not stop it; flooding will happen in any case. Consequently, drainage will not be able to save you from flooding with melt water. At the same time, it will interfere with normal root growth.
During soil preparation, a stake is driven into the planting site to which the young seedling will be tied.
The soil in the root zone is moistened and gradually compacted, monitoring the level of the root collar and preventing it from deepening. Gradually, a dense, gentle mound is formed around the trunk. The mulch layer should not come into contact with the trunk.
If the weather is sunny, then you need to take care of shading the apple tree during the establishment period to prevent wilting.
When planting a garden, you need to take into account the planting pattern of the apple tree. For vigorous seedlings, a 3x4 pattern is used, and for an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock, a 2x3 pattern is sufficient.
In Siberia, you can also use the classic apple tree planting scheme if your site is on a hill. At the same time, in winter, with the onset of the first frost, the tree trunk circle must be covered with a dense layer of mulch so that there is no funnel for water.
Apple tree varieties for Siberia
Many years of breeding work not only made it possible to grow apple trees in Siberia, but also gave gardeners large-fruited varieties that are not inferior to European ones. A competent approach to choosing a variety is the key to a good harvest.
You can watch the following useful video about choosing apple tree varieties for Siberia:
All Siberian apple tree varieties can be divided into 3 groups: ranetki (record winter hardiness, small fruits suitable for processing), semi-cultivated (the golden mean in terms of winter hardiness and taste of the fruit), large-fruited (more valuable, but also more capricious).
Representatives of the 1st group are Ranetka Ermolaeva, Gornoaltaiskoe and Dolgo. From the 2nd group, Bayana, Souvenir Altai, Altai Bagryanoye, Zavetnoye are popular. Varieties of the 3rd group are not grown everywhere. Melba, Northern Sinap, Welsey, and Belyi Naliv have proven themselves well. They have different ripening periods; the fruits are often used for fresh consumption and for storage.
In Siberia, apple trees can be planted in both autumn and spring. Which period will be better depends on the weather conditions of the year and the chosen planting technique.
